Leaving Kolkata

After we disembarked from the Uniworld Ganges Explorer II, we were placed back into the capable hands of Trinetra Tours. Read about our exploration of Bengal on our Ganges River Cruise here.

As we boarded our 2.5 hour flight to Mumbai, I found myself wishing we had given Kolkata more time. It’s not an easy city—crowded, chaotic, humid, and unapologetically intense—but that’s exactly what makes it so captivating. Kolkata doesn’t reveal itself quickly. It’s a city you have to sink into, where layers of history, culture, and intellect seem to unfold around every corner. From flower markets and colonial architecture to its rich blend of Bengali, Muslim, Chinese, Armenian, and Jewish influences, it felt less like a destination and more like stepping into a living, breathing story.

For me, Kolkata carried an extra layer of significance. As a pathologist, walking through a city tied so deeply to the history of medicine and science felt especially meaningful. It was here that Sir Ronald Ross furthered his groundbreaking work proving that mosquitoes transmit the Plasmodium parasites, forever changing our understanding of malaria. It was also the home of Satyendra Nath Bose, whose work gave the world the term “boson.” A city that has shaped literature, physics, medicine, and philosophy all at once is no ordinary place. Kolkata immersed us completely—and just as we were starting to understand its rhythm, it was time to move on.

Mumbai in Contrast

If Kolkata feels like the soul of India—intellectual, layered, and reflective—then Mumbai is its pulse. Where Delhi struck me as gritty yet grand, sprawling, and steeped in imperial history, Mumbai feels faster, sharper, and relentlessly driven. This is India’s financial capital, the home of Bollywood, where ambition seems to hum through the streets and the city moves at full speed from dawn until long after dark. Like Delhi and Kolkata, Mumbai carries the weight of immense wealth alongside stark poverty, but here it feels compressed—vertical, urgent, and impossible to ignore. After Kolkata’s introspective depth and Delhi’s monumental scale, Mumbai feels like stepping straight into India’s modern heartbeat. It quickly became our favorite of the big cities.

What struck us most was how much of Mumbai happens out in the open. Street food stalls steamed on nearly every corner, filling the air with the scent of frying snacks, fresh bread, spice, and chai. Commuters moved with astonishing speed through packed train stations while vendors balanced impossible loads through narrow streets. The city’s contrasts were everywhere: gleaming skyscrapers beside crowded markets, luxury hotels just blocks from fishermen unloading the morning catch, and quiet temples tucked into the middle of relentless traffic. Yet somehow, all of it worked together in a rhythm uniquely Mumbai.

One of our favorite experiences was a 5:30 a.m. behind-the-scenes tour of the city as Mumbai woke up for the day. Before sunrise we watched newspaper deliverymen sorting massive stacks with incredible precision, wandered through the vegetable, fish, flower, and spice markets as they buzzed to life, and rode the packed local train alongside early morning commuters. We saw the famous dabbawalas — Mumbai’s legendary lunchbox delivery network — in action, and visited the enormous open-air laundry where thousands of clothes are washed by hand each day. It was exhausting, fascinating, sensory overload in the best possible way, and gave us a deeper appreciation for the machinery that keeps one of the world’s largest cities moving every single day.

The Taj Mahal Palace Hotel

We chose the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel because of its history and prime location. The iconic red-domed hotel sits directly beside the Gateway of India in the historic Colaba district, overlooking the Arabian Sea and the constant swirl of ferries, taxis, street vendors, and visitors that make South Mumbai feel so alive. Opened in 1903 by industrialist Jamsetji Tata, the hotel has become one of India’s most recognizable landmarks, blending Indo-Saracenic architecture with old-world glamour and modern luxury. Over the decades it has hosted royalty, celebrities, politicians, and world leaders, yet it still feels deeply connected to the city around it. (Wikipedia)

We stayed in a pool view room in the Palace Wing, which gave us a quieter retreat from the intensity of Mumbai’s streets below. Looking down over the palm-lined courtyard pool each morning felt surprisingly serene for the middle of a city of more than 20 million people. The rooms combine classic décor and historical character with all the practical comforts expected from a luxury hotel — attentive service, plush bedding, marble bathrooms, strong air conditioning, and excellent dining options throughout the property.

The location was incredibly convenient for exploring South Mumbai, with the Gateway of India, Colaba Causeway, and waterfront all just steps away. After long days navigating Mumbai’s energy and chaos, returning to the Taj felt less like returning to a hotel and more like stepping into a piece of living history.

Near the Hotel: Street Food, Bars, and Laundry

The hotel faces the Gateway of India and the Arabian Sea. The whole area comes alive at night, and the street just behind the hotel offers some of the best street food we have had! Bademiya Seekh Kebabs. Bademiya is one of Mumbai’s most famous late-night street food institutions, especially known for its smoky seekh kebabs. Started in 1946 as a tiny roadside stall behind Taj Mahal Palace, it became legendary among locals, naval officers, Bollywood celebrities, and travelers. We liked it so much, we ate there twice! We loved the classic Mutton kebab wrap and the butter chicken wrap.

Along this block and the surrounding streets, there were countless street food stalls and bars. We didn’t visit any of the local watering holes- by the time we were finished eating each night, we were done! We had early mornings and busy days exploring and learning, leaving little time to party. Again, another night would have been great.

On the street behind the hotel, closest to the back right corner where Starbucks is located, there is an outdoor laundry service under a tent, right next to “Afghan Carpet House.” These guys cleaned and folded our laundry in about 24 hours, and it was easy and convenient to drop off and pick up.

*Pro Tip: We always plan to do laundry when traveling for extended periods of time. It allows us to pack lighter. Laundry services at high end hotels are ridiculously expensive, and we can typically do a whole load in the community for the price of one shirt in a hotel. Look for a service that charges by the kilo, rather than by the piece.

City Tour of Mumbai

We balked at our tour guide’s insistence that we start our tour at 5:30 am the next morning, but we were so glad we listened! Today’s guide was a feisty Indian mama named Chandana, who used her wit and intelligence to teach us about real life in Mumbai. She kept us on our toes and on the go!

Newspapers

First stop: we visited the newspaper distribution area just before dawn. In the darkness, hundreds of men sorted towering stacks of newspapers with incredible speed before racing off on bicycles and scooters to deliver them across the city. What amazed us most was learning that many of them were not full-time delivery workers at all, but ordinary people with regular day jobs who wake up around 2:30 a.m. each morning to complete their paper routes before heading to work. Even in the digital age, Mumbai still has a deeply rooted newspaper culture, and watching this hidden predawn ritual offered a glimpse into the city’s extraordinary work ethic and energy.

Morning Exercise: Pole Dancing Men

One of the most unexpected sights during our morning tour of Mumbai was a group of men practicing Mallakhamb, a traditional Indian sport that blends strength, agility, yoga, and gymnastics. In a local athletic field, athletes climbed smooth wooden poles with remarkable ease, twisting into gravity-defying poses and holding seemingly impossible balances using only their strength and control. Originally developed centuries ago as a training method for wrestlers, Mallakhamb remains an important part of India’s athletic heritage. Watching these performers train in the early morning light offered a fascinating glimpse into a living tradition—one that combines discipline, artistry, and athleticism in a way unlike anything we had seen before.

The athletic traditions here go far beyond Mallakhamb. Mumbai is also famous for Dahi Handi, held each August during Janmashtami, when teams of men form towering human pyramids to reach and break a clay pot suspended high above the street, reenacting the mischievous butter-stealing exploits of Krishna. Celebrated across the city, it’s one of Mumbai’s most exhilarating spectacles—and after learning about it, we couldn’t help but wish our timing had lined up so we could witness it ourselves.

Fruit and Vegetable Market

Next stop: we crossed the city to one of Mumbai’s bustling fruit and vegetable markets, where the alleyways were already overflowing with shoppers, restaurant buyers, and vendors long before sunrise. The market was a blur of color and motion — piles of bright chilies, red tomatoes, purple eggplants, leafy greens, and overflowing baskets of produce mixed with the earthy smell of vegetables, spices, and damp pavement.

Skinny older men darted through the crowded lanes carrying astonishingly heavy loads balanced on their heads while I tried desperately to stay out of their way. Every now and then I would catch the eye of a vendor, who would pause just long enough to greet me with the unmistakable Indian head wobble before disappearing back into the chaos of the market.

Fun fact: The Indian head wobble… i noticed this all along, but consciously became aware at this market. I noticed it most with guys, and I interpreted it as a bit flirty. But, apparently, it can mean many things. I found myself doing it by the end of the trip and after the trip had ended:

• quick wobble = agreement/understanding
• slow gentle wobble = friendliness or polite listening
• enthusiastic wobble = excitement or strong agreement

Flower Market

We visited several flower markets in India. The flower market in Mumbai was set up on the sidewalks next to a busy street. Along with the fabrics of the women’s clothing and the brightly painted idols, flowers contributed so much to the overall color of this country.

In India, flowers are used far beyond decoration and play a central role in everyday religious and cultural life. People buy marigolds, jasmine, and roses daily to offer at home shrines and temples, where they’re placed on deities as part of prayer rituals. They’re also essential for ceremonies like weddings, funerals, and festivals, where garlands and decorations symbolize blessing, respect, and celebration. Even in daily routines, flowers appear at roadside shrines, shop entrances, and in people’s hair, making them a constant and meaningful presence in both sacred and ordinary moments.

After having chai on the street with the locals, we put our elbows out and carved our way through the Mardi Gras-level crowds to the other end. We were in the middle of it for sure!

Most people in India celebrate the January 1 New Year and their regional New Year. Because India is so culturally diverse, each state has its own personality, language, clothing, and traditions. Some even use different calendars. Different areas have their New Year’s festivals at different times, and Mumbai’s New Year was the next day. One of the traditions particularly here, is chewing neem. Neem is a bitter leaf that is a cure-all, purportedly having anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-inflammatory properties. It can be ingested, applied to the skin, and even used to brush the teeth. It’s use is especially common on New Year’s to set the tone for the coming year.

Sasson Docks Fish Market

One of the most striking stops on our Mumbai morning tour was the women’s fish market at the Sasson Docks, where rows of female vendors sat cross-legged behind overflowing displays of the day’s catch, selling everything from shimmering pomfret and mackerel to crabs and small river fish. Egrets perched everywhere, waiting for their chance to snatch a snack.

The air was thick with the sharp, unmistakable smell of the sea mixed with ice, salt, and early morning heat, and the energy was immediate and unapologetically direct — fast bargaining, quick decisions, and constant movement as buyers from restaurants and local households came through.

What stood out most was how firmly women ran this space; they weren’t just participating in the market, they dominated it, calling out prices, cleaning fish with practiced speed, and handling money with complete confidence. Men were responsible for bringing in the catch in their brightly colored boats and sorting the fish, then handing them over to the ladies for sale and, in some cases, cleaning and preparation. It felt intense but organized, a raw and essential slice of Mumbai life where commerce, survival, and routine all collided in a very real way.

*Pro tip: We wore sneakers to the fish market. We hardly noticed the smell after being at the market for a while. When we got back to the room, our shoes stunk up the entire place! Buy some cheap throwaway shoes at one of the markets before your visit to the fish market. It took several days and many washes to get the smell out of our shoes. It was FOUL. I can almost smell it as I write…

We went back to the hotel for a lovely breakfast, then headed out for the second part of our city tour. We saw all the major sites, including Mumbai University, the High Court, Victoria Terminus, and Crawford Market.

Dabbawalas

The Mumbai Dabbawalas are Mumbai’s famous lunchbox delivery network, and what struck us most was how personal the system really is. Every morning they collect home-cooked meals from people’s kitchens and deliver them across the city so office workers can eat food made at home instead of buying lunch out. It isn’t just about convenience — for many families it’s a way to stay connected to traditional home cooking, save money, and avoid relying on fast food or canteen meals during long workdays.

The system itself is astonishing: thousands of men, mostly from rural Maharashtra (the state Mumbai is in), moving through trains, bikes, and streets with color-coded tins that somehow always end up in the right place by noon. Watching it, it felt less like a delivery service and more like a quiet civic ritual that keeps home life stitched into the middle of Mumbai’s workday chaos.

*Pro Tip: A great place to witness the choreography of all this is at Churchgate Railway Station in South Mumbai. Arrive at 11:00 AM.

That’s when you’ll see:

• lunchboxes arriving from suburban trains
• the rapid hand-sorting by color and symbol codes
• stacks loaded onto handcarts and bicycles
• teams dispersing into South Mumbai offices

Ghandi Museum: Mani Bhavan

Any trip to India would be incomplete without learning a little about Mahatma Gandhi—often called the “Father of the Nation” in India. He was the moral force behind India’s independence movement. Through nonviolent resistance, civil disobedience, and an unshakable belief in truth, he challenged British rule and helped lead India to freedom in 1947. His influence stretched far beyond India, shaping leaders like Martin Luther King Jr. and reminding the world that courage does not always have to be loud or violent to be powerful.

Mahatma Gandhi’s real name was Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi. “Mahatma” was an honorific, meaning “great soul” in Sanskrit. It wasn’t his given name—he earned it through his leadership, philosophy, and personal discipline. In India, he’s also widely called Bapu, meaning “father,” which ties into his title as the Father of the Nation.

Visiting Mani Bhavan felt unexpectedly intimate—less like walking through a museum and more like stepping quietly into the everyday spaces of someone who changed the world. It’s name is not symbolic, it is simply the original family name of the home. This modest home served as Gandhi’s Mumbai base for years, and standing in the small rooms where he planned marches, wrote letters, and wrestled with the enormous weight of a nation’s future made history feel startlingly human.

There was something grounding about seeing the simplicity of his surroundings—the sparse furnishings, the spinning wheel, the handwritten notes—and realizing how much of India’s story unfolded in such an unassuming place. In a city as loud and fast as Mumbai, Mani Bhavan felt like a pause: a place to reflect not just on Gandhi’s legacy, but on the power of conviction, restraint, and purpose.

Dhobi Ghat

Back out into the chaos… Next, we experienced the local train- we had heard how crazy local trains in Mumbai were, but we were between rush hours, in an empty first class car. So, our experience was just fine if not particularly authentic. Tip- if you are traveling with a mixed gender group, you’ll have to either ride separately or use the men’s car.

We the local train to the famous Dhobi Ghat, the world’s largest open-air laundry, where thousands of workers spend their days washing, beating, drying, and ironing clothes for hotels, hospitals, and local families across the city. From above, the endless rows of concrete washing pens looked almost choreographed, filled with colorful sheets and clothing hanging in every direction while men worked nonstop in the humid morning heat.

“Dhobi” refers to the traditional caste/community of washermen in India, many of whom historically worked by hand-washing clothes at rivers, tanks, or communal washing areas. Over time, this operation has evolved into what it is today. Although not fully modernized, they do use washing machines now, then hang clothes out to dry. Fun fact- they don’t use clothespins, instead using double rope and twisting the items between the two sides.

Come back next time to hear about our food tour in Mumbai, where we experience iconic street foods and a tourist treasure.