Finally, we arrive in Kolkata for the cruise that inspired this trip and gave us the little push we needed to finally see India! Read about the basics of our trip here.

After a somewhat eventful morning- one of our cruise guests was detained for carrying a personal GPS he used for hiking (they thought he was a spy)- we boarded our buses for the one hour or so drive from the Kolkata airport to the port. The port was in an extremely sketchy location, and the driver could barely get the bus to our drop-off point!

We finally arrived and were warmly greeted with rose petals and marigold garlands. Our cabin was conveniently located right down the hallway from the dining room. Our stewards introduced our room to us and took our special requests for water, ice, beer, and wine. We asked for coffee each morning, and each evening let him know what time we’d like our coffee… the service was impeccable.

I described our cabin in my previous post, which you can read here. It was the entry level “Signature Suite,” and it was perfect. I had a look at a few other room types, including the Maharaja Suite, and they were a bit larger with more storage and french balconies, but we were happy with our choice. The standout for me was the bathroom- this was no typical cruise ship bathroom, it was more like that of a luxury hotel. The shower was large and had fantastic water pressure. There was a decent amount of counter/storage space for toiletries.

Of course, the standout was the service. It was over the top- warm, friendly, and they catered to our every whim.

Keep in mind, itineraries are subject to change based on water levels and such. Here was ours. I’m using the itinerary from Uniworld’s website as a shell and filling in my personal experience. Contact me if you’d like to book!

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Sacred Ganges Cruise Itinerary – Uniworld Ganges Explorer II (Luxury River Cruise in India)

Experience one of the most immersive ways to explore India’s sacred river on this luxury Ganges River cruise itinerary aboard the Ganges Explorer II. This 7-night journey between Kolkata and the spiritual heart of Bengal combines colonial history, rural village life, temple architecture, and riverside culture along the Hooghly River.

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Day 1: Kolkata Embarkation – Luxury Ganges River Cruise Begins

Arrive in Kolkata, West Bengal, and board your luxury river ship on the Ganges. Settle into your suite aboard the Ganges Explorer II and enjoy a welcome briefing. Evening welcome dinner as your Ganges River cruise in India begins.

The food was fantastic. Breakfast and lunch were served buffet style, with a live cooking station serving regional specialties with every meal. The dinner menu was different each evening, and there were Indian and Western choices with each. We almost always chose Indian, and enjoyed every meal.

Begin sailing along the Hooghly River, experiencing authentic river life in India along the Ganges with temples, ghats, and rural scenes.

Aside: Ghats versus Temples- Both are seen frequently along the Ganges, so here is a primer on the difference.

In India, ghats and temples are related to religion and daily life, but they are very different kinds of places.

Ghats

A ghat is a series of steps leading down to a river or other body of water, most famously along the Ganges River.

Ghats are used for:

• bathing
• religious rituals
• prayer ceremonies
• washing clothes
• cremations (at certain ghats)
• gathering and social life

They are essentially the interface between the city and the sacred river. Along the Ganges, rivers are considered spiritually purifying, so people come to the ghats for both practical and religious reasons.

A ghat itself is not usually a building — it’s more like a waterfront staircase and public ritual space.

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Temples

A temple is a dedicated religious building used for worship of a deity or deities in Hinduism (or other Indian religions).

Temples typically contain:

• shrines
• statues or icons of gods
• priests
• prayer areas
• ritual spaces
• elaborate carvings or architecture

People visit temples to:

• pray
• make offerings
• attend ceremonies
• celebrate festivals
• seek blessings

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How They Work Together

In many sacred cities, especially along the Ganges, temples and ghats exist side-by-side.

For example:

• A person may visit a temple to pray,
• then walk down to the ghat to bathe in the river or participate in an evening ceremony.

So:

• Temple = sacred building
• Ghat = riverfront steps and ritual space

We enjoyed watching river life onshore pass us by, whether from our window, from the Observation Deck, or from the Governor’s Lounge.

My favorite way to start the day was enjoying a cup of coffee and a croissant in our room, gazing out of our window and writing in my journal. Now and then, small wooden boats would appear out of the mist. Some held fishermen standing barefoot at the bow, casting hand nets into the muddy water with practiced precision, while others tended long bamboo-framed nets stretching just beneath the surface.

Every so often we would pass boats piled high with sand or silt dredged from the riverbed, a reminder that the Ganges is not only sacred, but deeply practical — a working river that supports millions of lives. From our quiet vantage point on deck, the scene unfolded slowly: fishermen checking their catch, men poling boats through the shallows, ferries carrying villagers from one bank to the other. It was one of the moments that made the river feel most alive to me, not just as a spiritual icon of India, but as the center of everyday life.

On shore, we’d see people bathing, swimming, or washing their clothes. They’d look up and wave, particularly the kids. The vegetation was tropical, with ubiquitous mango trees, coconut palm trees and groves of banana trees near villages, and occasional fig and banyan trees. Bamboo groves grew wild and lined paths. Nowhere seemed truly wild- everywhere there were signs of human life, from temples, ghats, and villages to cultivated farmland.

Beyond the villages and temple spires, the riverbanks often opened into wide stretches of rice paddies shimmering in the heat. Some fields were flooded and mirror-like, reflecting the pale sky above, while others glowed an electric green against the muddy banks of the Ganges. Farmers moved slowly through the water tending the rice by hand, a scene that felt almost timeless from the deck of the ship. The further we cruised into rural Bengal, the more the landscape revealed itself as both intensely fertile and deeply tied to the rhythms of the river.

One thing that initially confused me was that while we were on a “Ganges River cruise,” the maps and guides kept referring to the Hooghly River. I eventually learned that the Hooghly is actually one of the main distributaries of the Ganges — a southern branch that flows through West Bengal and past Kolkata before reaching the Bay of Bengal. So while we weren’t sailing on the main northern channel most people picture when they think of the Ganges, we were still very much traveling within the greater Ganges river system. In Bengal, the Hooghly carries the same spiritual, cultural, and historical significance, making it feel no less connected to the sacred river itself.

 

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Day 2: Matiari – Traditional Brass Working Village on the Ganges

Stop in Matiari, a traditional artisan village known for handmade brass craftsmanship. Walk through local workshops and experience centuries-old metalworking traditions. Continue your luxury cruise on the Ganges River through rural Bengal landscapes.

As we approached Matiari, we watched a large, flat ferry boat shuttling people, many of whom were on scooters, across the river. It amazed me how many people and how much gear this ferry could hold! We had a little sampan that shuttled us from our riverboat to the dock onshore, and were forced to wear our bulky bright orange life vests…

We walked directly from the dock to the village, passing a transient circus, carts pulled by donkeys hauling vegetables or wood, and people headed to or from the ferry, carrying on their day to day lives. Shops and food stalls were just opening, and the smell of naan made my stomach growl.

Matiari felt noticeably slower than the cities we had come from, but life still moved with a steady rhythm along its dusty roads. As we walked through the village, scooters buzzed past us every few minutes, tuk-tuks rattled along carrying families or supplies, and the occasional car carefully navigated the narrow dirt lanes.

It wasn’t quiet in the way rural places sometimes are imagined to be — there was still motion, commerce, conversation, and the constant feeling that daily life was unfolding around us — just at a softer, less frantic pace than Kolkata or Delhi. The village seemed to exist somewhere between old and new India, where traditional brass workshops and hand-built homes shared the road with motorbikes, mobile phones, and the everyday movement of modern life.

In the village, we visited a series of small workshops that formed an entire ecosystem around bell metal. The process started with raw metal being melted down in simple furnace setups, where intense heat and careful timing transformed scrap into glowing, liquid bronze. Workers wore sweat-stained t-shirts, their brows glistening and hands strong as they worked the fires.

From there, we watched the metal cooled, hammered, and refined into workable sheets and rods. In another workshop just a few steps away, artisans shaped the metal by hand — bending, tapping, and polishing it into pots, vessels, decorative items, and everyday objects using techniques passed down through generations. The rhythm of the work was steady and physical, each stage flowing into the next as pieces moved from raw material to finished goods.

Finally, in the smallest front-facing stalls, the same items were arranged for sale, catching the light with a warm golden sheen. It felt less like separate businesses and more like one continuous village craft, where production, artistry, and commerce all existed side by side in the same narrow lanes.

The bell metal industry we saw in Matiari is part of a long-standing craft tradition in eastern India, where artisans work with a copper-tin alloy (bronze) known as “bell metal.” The name comes from its historic use in making temple bells, valued for the clear, resonant sound the metal produces. Over time, villages along the Ganges and Hooghly River developed into small production hubs, where entire families specialize in different stages of the process—from melting and shaping the metal to polishing and selling finished goods. Today, it remains a living, working industry, blending centuries-old techniques with the everyday commerce of village life.

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Day 3: Murshidabad and Baranagar—One-time Capital and Rural Village.

Discover Murshidabad, once the capital of Bengal under the Nawabs. Visit key historical sites including Hazarduari Palace, mosques, and gardens. This is one of the highlights of any heritage-focused Ganges River cruise in India. 

Murshidabad

A fleet of tuk tuks awaited our arrival at the next stop on our journey. They whisked us away to the Katra Mosque. Built in the early 18th century during the reign of the Nawabs of Bengal, it was once part of a much larger complex that included a madrasa (Islamic school) and the tomb of Nawab Murshid Quli Khan, the city’s founder. Even in its partially ruined state today, the mosque still feels imposing yet peaceful, with its tall arched façade and twin minarets rising above the surrounding grounds.

Next stop was the Hazarduari Palace, the “Palace of a Thousand Doors,” which dominates the landscape with its imposing neoclassical façade. Inside, the rooms have been transformed into a museum that preserves the legacy of the Nawabs of Bengal—ornate furniture, portraits, weapons, and artifacts that tell the story of Murshidabad’s former role as a political and economic capital. Walking through the long corridors and echoing halls, it was easy to imagine the scale of power that once moved through this riverside city, even as the present-day streets outside remain quiet and unhurried.

ATMs in India were difficult to come by, and I felt like I needed a little cash in case I wanted to purchase anything in the villages. Our tuk tuk driver took us on a wild goose chase to find an ATM that actually worked. Third try was a charm! This fun little excursion gave us a glimpse into the daily lives of the village people, and gave them a look at a rare tourist- not many of us make it this far afield!

Baranagar

This was a pretty interesting stop. We left the riverboat on foot and were greeted by a welcoming committee of several small children. They ran around excitedly and were particularly enthralled by a very tall white man with white hair and a warm, friendly demeanor. He taught them to high-five, and I think the kids would have stayed all day!

But there were sites to be seen… just across from the dock was the Char Bangla Temples. This complex consists of 4 temples enclosing a courtyard. Each temple had 3 arched openings and 3 Shiva Lingams. The temples are ornamented with terra cotta panels depicting scenes from daily life and Hindu mythology. Red doors provided a stunning visual contrast and made for visually interesting photos.

Fun Facts:

The Shiva Lingam is a sacred symbol in Hinduism representing Shiva, one of the principal deities in the Hindu tradition.

What it is

A lingam (or linga) is usually a smooth, upright, cylindrical or oval-shaped stone placed on a base called a yoni. Together, they symbolize the union of divine energies.

There is an etymological and symbolic link to sexual imagery, but in classical Hindu thought this is not seen as erotic. Instead, it is a metaphysical symbol of cosmic creation and balance, where physical imagery is used to point to philosophical ideas about how the universe itself comes into being.

In temples along the Ganges—especially in places like West Bengal—you’ll often see simple stone lingams being ritually bathed and worshipped daily, with the emphasis on devotion and cosmic symbolism rather than literal interpretation.

It is not meant to be a literal human form of Shiva, but rather an abstract representation of:

• creative energy
• cosmic power
• the infinite nature of the universe

Why it’s important

The Shiva Lingam is important because it is a central object of worship in many temples and shrines dedicated to Shiva. Devotees offer:

• water or milk poured over the lingam
• flowers and leaves (especially bilva leaves)
• prayers and rituals

This ritual bathing (called abhishek) symbolizes purification and renewal.

Deeper meaning

Philosophically, the lingam represents:

• the formless aspect of Shiva (beyond human appearance)
• the idea of creation and dissolution in the universe
• the balance of masculine and feminine energies (often symbolized by the lingam and yoni together)

In places like Kalna or rural Bengal

The lingam is often the central object inside each small shrine. Even simple village temples can have rows of them, showing how widespread and locally embedded Shiva worship is along the river.

The Village

We took a walk through bamboo groves, down dirt paths into the village. These folks seemed a little surprised to see us- I’m guessing not a lot of tourists venture into their village either. They were warm and friendly, posing for photos as they performed their daily labors. We watched a woman making cigarettes, and others weaving fibers and cutting flowers.

One hut was cow dung central– as in many of the villages we visited along the Ganges, we noticed cow dung carefully spread and stuck to the exterior walls of homes in flat patties, and sometimes shaped and stacked on sticks to dry in the sun. It initially looks unusual, but it’s actually a practical and long-standing rural practice—once dried, cow dung is commonly used as fuel for cooking fires and as a natural building and plaster material.

In some places, it’s also believed to have mild antiseptic properties and is used to help seal and cool earthen walls. What looked like simple, everyday textures on the village huts was really part of a much older, self-sustaining way of life that still persists in rural India today. Elephant dung is used similarly in Africa.

There was a small school which was founded by a local villager.

The highlight of this stop for a few of our passengers, especially the Aussies, was joining a local cricket match. In Baranagar, cricket felt like the village’s unofficial language of play. As in the rest of India, cricket is more of a religion than a sport… I guess it’s like the NFL back home, but not my thing.

Some of our cruisers joined a local match—kids and adults gathered on a rough patch of ground and played. The game flowed informally, with laughter, quick adjustments, and plenty of improvisation, as locals and visitors alike slipped easily into the rhythm of play. It was one of those simple, unexpected moments where sport dissolved the language barrier and became just another way of being part of life along the river.

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Day 4: Mayapur – Spiritual India & ISKCON Headquarters

Visit Mayapur, a major pilgrimage site and global ISKCON headquarters. Explore temple complexes and spiritual ashram life along the Ganges. This stop highlights the spiritual and religious significance of the sacred Ganges River.

ISKCON: International Society for Krishna Consciousness.

We stepped off of the ship and immediately felt a different vibe from anywhere else in India. Firstly, we encountered mostly white-skinned people… singles, couples, and families with small children. As we entered the complex surrounding the massive temples financed by Henry Ford’s grandson, we met several english-speaking, white-skinned people who had a very hippie/seeker aesthetic. The men were essentially bald, but with little patches of hair in the back with a small ponytail. Most people we encountered had “tilaka” on their foreheads, markings made with clay or river soil shaped like tuning forks, worn as an outward symbol of belonging and devotion.

I don’t like to judge, and I don’t like using the word “weird” to describe other people’s beliefs, especially when they’ve devoted their life to something… so I won’t. For me, travel is about learning as much as possible- even (or especially) the uncomfortable stuff. This was a little uncomfortable, particularly when we walked through the active temple. Surrounded by people actively worshipping and chanting “hare, hare, hare Krishna” was a bit surreal. Not only did it feel completely alien to me, but I felt as if I were intruding on their private worship.

Our guide for the day, a 60-something white man deemed “Pushpa,” which means “flower,” was a peaceful, kind soul who gently answered our questions and gave us a glimpse into his world. He actually lived in Florida for most of the year, spending 3-4 months in the compound.

Visiting Mayapur, I couldn’t help but reflect on my own background in Pentecostal Holiness traditions, where faith is also deeply expressive, embodied, and emotionally charged—so in some ways the energy of ISKCON’s devotional practice didn’t feel entirely foreign. At the same time, I was aware of how powerful and absorbing any tightly knit spiritual community can become, especially for someone seeking meaning, belonging, or direction.

I’ve also seen firsthand, through my extended family, how a young person can have a very difficult experience when that intensity tips into manipulation or control, which made me observant without being fully at ease. What I saw in Mayapur was a large, organized religious movement rooted in devotion to Krishna, full of sincere practice and global participation, but it also left me thinking about how important it is in any tradition—whether Eastern or Western—for transparency, healthy boundaries, and the freedom for individuals to step in and out without pressure.

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Day 5: Kalna – Temples 

Visit Kalna for a guided visit to the famous terracotta temple complex of Bengal, including a visit to the Shiva temple circle. Continue cruising through scenic rural India.

We were collected by a cluster of tuk-tuks and rattled through the quiet streets of Kalna, the pace of the town slow and unhurried as we made our way to the first stop.

The Naba Kailash complex was unlike anything I had seen elsewhere along the river. Two concentric circles of small, intricately carved Shiva temples formed a kind of living diagram—34 white shrines in the inner ring symbolizing pure thought, and 74 temples in the outer ring representing the everyday world. Walking through the circular layout felt almost meditative, as if the architecture itself was guiding movement and meaning at the same time.

From there, we crossed the street to the Rajbari temple complex, where the scale and detail shifted again. The Pratapeshwar Temple, built in 1849, was covered in extraordinary terracotta panels depicting mythological scenes and fragments of daily life—if you look closely, you can even spot unexpected details like a girl in Victorian dress holding a violin among the carved figures. Nearby stood the Lalji Temple, the oldest in the complex dating to 1739, its three-storied form topped with 25 pinnacles, alongside the Krishna Chandra Temple built in a similar style. Together, the complex felt layered and dense with history, each structure adding another chapter to Kalna’s architectural story.

Finally, our tuk tuks took us to the wet market, where cats lie in wait for discarded scraps of fish, then the adjacent produce market. While these types of markets are similar all over Asia and Africa, I love visiting them for a glimpse into real life. Nowhere do you feel more immersed in that life- surrounded by the sights, the smells, and the sounds of bustling markets. And the colors and textures make for great photos!

En route back to the ship, we explored an “idol graveyard,” a quiet area filled with partially broken and weathered Hindu statues. It felt pretty eerie, seeing rows of weathered faces, broken figures, and fading paint… We learned that many festival idols in India are intentionally temporary, created from clay for worship during celebrations and later ceremonially immersed in rivers or ponds, symbolizing the deity’s return to the divine realm and the temporary nature of material forms.

Some are respectfully retired once damaged or no longer used. Seeing the fading figures gathered together near the river became a reminder of how cyclical many Hindu traditions are—creation, devotion, dissolution, and return all woven into the spiritual rhythm of daily life along the Ganges.

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Day 6: Chandannagar – French Colonial India on the Hooghly River

Stop in Chandannagar, a former French colonial settlement along the Ganges. Explore its riverside promenade, colonial buildings, and unique Franco-Indian heritage before cruising back toward Kolkata.

I skipped this stop because I was in need of spa time! The spa onboard was great and word got out- it was difficult to secure an appointment with either of the two massage therapists, so I took what I could get. I made the right call- I left feeling blissed out and refreshed.

While I stayed behind on the ship, my husband ventured into Chandannagar and returned convinced it felt noticeably different from the other towns along the river. Once a French colony, the city still carries traces of its European past in the architecture, riverfront promenade, and overall atmosphere, with a quieter and surprisingly clean feel compared to many of the bustling Bengali towns we had visited.

It was an especially hot afternoon, and while the guests explored a local museum focused on Chandannagar’s colonial history, several members of our crew gathered outside in the shade for tea, lingering together in the heat before heading back toward the river.  Ending the museum tour early, he and DJ Tasty went off in search of street food around the corner.

Assuming the locals knew what was good, they lined up with 3 other patrons around one particular stand as the food monger made individual pani puri, cracking open the top of small hollow fried shells made of wheat flour, stuffing in some mashed potatoes, onions, sprouts, a slurry of masala, followed by a splash of flavored water, a finally dropping it into the palm of Vuong’s hand. The monger did all of this without the help of utensils or gloves….

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Day 7: Kolkata Sightseeing 

Explore Kolkata, known as the “City of Joy,” with its colonial architecture, bustling markets, and cultural landmarks.

On the evening of Day 6, we docked back at the embarkation point. Unfortunately, a very lively restaurant sits adjacent to the dock, and we are early birds… the thumping beats kept me up for most of the nignt.

Yet we powered on for an amazing day of sightseeing in the city of Kolkata.

Kolkata welcomed us with a kind of beautiful intensity—crowded streets, constant motion, layers of history, and moments of unexpected humanity around nearly every corner. Our tour carried us through some of the city’s most memorable scenes, from the flower market bursting with color and fragrance to the narrow lanes where artisans sculpt clay idols by hand for upcoming festivals and celebrations. But beyond the sensory overload, some of the most meaningful moments came during our visit to the Calcutta Rescue school for children, which offered a more personal glimpse into the resilience and complexity of daily life in the city. Kolkata felt layered in every sense—creative, chaotic, compassionate, and deeply alive.

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Day 8: Kolkata Disembarkation – End of Luxury Ganges Cruise

Disembark in Kolkata after breakfast. Your luxury Ganges River cruise aboard the Ganges Explorer II concludes, leaving you with a deep understanding of India’s cultural, historical, and spiritual heartland.

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Cruising the Ganges aboard the Uniworld Ganges Explorer II offered a side of India that felt slower, more intimate, and deeply connected to the rhythms of the river itself. Beyond the temples, palaces, and colonial history, what stayed with me most were the everyday scenes unfolding along the banks—fishermen casting nets at sunrise, children walking narrow village paths to school, women washing clothes at the ghats, and farmers tending rice paddies in the heat. From bustling Kolkata to quiet riverside villages like Kalna and Baranagar, the journey revealed how the Ganges is far more than a sacred river; it remains a living artery of culture, spirituality, work, and daily life for millions of people across Bengal.

Come back next time as we gather our energy for one last stop of constant activity in Mumbai, then slam on brakes for a few lazy days on the beach… But our tale has a twist! Goa was supposed to be our last stop, but fate had other plans for us! India was not ready to let us go just yet!