In this post, learn about the largest city in Vietnam, as we travel to Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City. How to get around, where to stay, and what to eat! We spent several days here before our bike trip from the city to Angkor Wat in Cambodia. Check out photos from this part of our trip here.
Introduction to Saigon
Saigon, or Ho Chi Minh City, is the largest city in Vietnam, with a population of around 12 million people. It was originally named “Sai Gon,” after the Kapok tree, which has a lightweight wood great for making things like canoes and artistic carvings, and fibers great for stuffing mattresses and such. It was renamed for Ho Chi Minh after the war, but everyone we met still called it Saigon.
When we flew into Saigon, the vast expanse of the city was overwhelming. The greater metropolitan area covers around 800 square miles! The city is bisected by the Saigon River, and further divided by its smaller tributaries and canals. It is a modern, trendy yet historical city with everything you could possibly need. It is chaotic and buzzing with activity! We loved it!
Districts/Quan
Saigon is divided into 21 districts, or Quan, 16 of which are urban and 5 are suburban. Each district is further divided into wards. Districts 1 and 3 are the main “downtown” districts, and this was where we spent most of our time. It made the city feel more manageable, and we knew our way around these two districts pretty well by the time we left. District 1 is the main tourist area and contains many of the major attractions, including Reunification Palace and the Central Post Office. District 3 contains the Xa Loi Pagoda and the Monument of the Venerable Monk Thich Quang Duc. The latter was one of the most impactful places for me- this was the site of that famous photo of the monk immolating himself in the name of religious freedom.
Most first-time visitors stay in one of these two districts, D1 being the most popular. This makes sense, since the main historical sites are here, and the selection of accommodations and cuisine are vast. District 2 is a major hub for expats, D4 is great for seafood, and D5 is home to Chinatown. We only scratched the surface during our visit, and I am no expert on the city. But that’s my 2 cents!
To my Vietnamese friends- what do you think? What is your favorite district and why? Comment below or on my Facebook page!
A Capsule History of Vietnam
General
I strongly recommend doing some reading about the history and culture of Vietnam (or any country) before visiting. The bulk of what we, as Americans, learn about Vietnam starts in the mid 1900’s, which is like yesterday for this country. I am by no means an authority on the subject, but I am very interested in learning more and have done a good bit of reading, thinking, and trying to understand… so a brief, condensed, dumbed-down, simplified view from 10,000 feet of the vast history of this fascinating nation follows.
Vietnam has been around, in some form, for thousands of years. The indigenous people eventually blended with the waves of invaders, explorers, and conquerors… long story short resulting in around 50 ethnic groups within this single country! The geographic location afforded this long, narrow, coastal country with a unique climate which lent itself to fertile land and an abundance of resources. Dense jungles and rainforests resulted, populated by elephants, tigers, and all sorts of giant bugs and wildlife. The wet climate made the country perfect for growing rice, which became the center of village life and commerce. With time, hunting, fishing, and raising livestock became popular means of feeding the family and making a living.
Invaders, Influencers, and Religion
Vietnam’s location along the South China Sea contributed to its desirability to China, who began invading and annoying the Vietnamese people back in around 100 BC. A centuries-long tug-of-war eventually loosened China’s grip; however, Chinese influence continued, regardless of who was in power.
The Cham people were of Indian descent and set up shop in central Vietnam, along a popular trade route. The Cham brought Hinduism and Indian influence, and eventually their kingdom, Champa, rose to prominence. The Champa kingdom was eventually annexed to Vietnam, but several ethnic groups who originated with the Cham remain to this day, and the former Champa kingdom still contains Hindu statues and temples. Many of the Cham people later converted to Islam and formed a separate ethnic group.
Religion
Buddhism was introduced to Vietnam early in the Common Era by the Chinese people in the north and the Indian people in the South. Its popularity waxed and waned, but in present-day Vietnam, it is the most prominent form of religion. With that said, less than 20% of resident Vietnamese people consider themselves Buddhist. Almost half practice “folk religions,” 8% are Catholic, and around 30% are unaffiliated with any religious group. The Communist government is officially atheist and, at least early in its rule, promoted the same amongst its people.
Catholicism was introduced by another group of conquerors, the Portuguese, in the 16th century. Interestingly, a new religion called “Cao Dai,” was created in 1926 and is monotheistic and a sort of combination of Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism.
Along the way, there were Imperial periods, times of turmoil and peace, and eventually colonization by the French. For all of the awfulness caused by this colonization, their influence is seen positively in the forms of architecture and French bread. The colonization lasted for 6+ decades and finally ended when the French were defeated at the battle of Dien Bien Phu. After this, the country was divided into the Communist-ruled North Vietnam, and the Republic of Vietnam, or South Vietnam. The north was heavily influenced by communist China and the Soviet Union, while the south was governed by the French.
The War and Current Era
Soon, in an attempt to stop Communism from spreading, the US got involved on the side of the South Vietnamese and the conflict known in the US as the Vietnam War began. The North Vietnamese Communists won and reunified North and South under the Communist government. A mass exodus of Vietnamese people occurred, and the country eventually recovered. After many years, our relations improved, and the US and Vietnam are friendly today.
The government is still communist, but capitalism plays a strong role in today’s Vietnam. Social media, activism, and many other freedoms we as Americans hold dear are still tightly restricted, but things have improved and continue to do so. The people we met described a more capitalist society with opportunities for trade, investment, and entrepreneurship open to motivated, hardworking people. Check out this article if you want to read about this point of view.
Vietnam’s rich history and the strength and resilience of its people make this country diverse and fascinating! I strongly encourage you to visit. It is affordable and provides a plethora of experiences for any type of traveler. Many expats have made Vietnam home for these reasons and many more.
Accommodations in Saigon
I’m putting this first because I usually book our accommodations ahead of time. I am sure you can just show up and find great deals, but it just isn’t in my nature.
Saigon has accommodations for all budgets! From a $5 hostel bed to a $300 room in a posh hotel, do it your way!
We stayed at an AirBnB since we were here for several nights. The apartment was $100 a night and located in a high-rise called “The One Saigon,” which had a gym and rooftop pool. The unit we rented (check out the AirBnB listing here) was a 2-bedroom, 2-bathroom condo with sweeping views of the city, a washing machine, and a kitchen. It was located in District 1, within walking distance of Ben Thanh Market, Saigon Center, Bui Vien Walking Street, and everything else we wanted to see. It was perfect for our needs!
Hotels
If a hotel is more your speed, they are plentiful and affordable! For our last night in Saigon, we stayed at the uber-posh Hotel des Artes. You can stay here for $100-150 a night, which includes a breakfast feast. It is close to lots of attractions, including the Turtle Pond, a popular hang out spot for local teenagers.
Across the way from our apartment was New World Saigon Hotel, which was high end and available for less than $200 a night. For slightly more than that, you can go ultra-high end and stay at the Reverie or the Park Hyatt, but you can get a very nice room for $100 or less. Agoda.com is a great site for booking hotel rooms in Asia. If you are on a tight budget, are traveling alone, or just want to be around lots of young travelers, you can get a bed in a hostel for as little as $5 a night, and this often includes breakfast! Check out hostelworld.com. If you are into the backpacker way of life, or just looking to party, find a bed or room on Pham Ngu Lao Street.
Getting Around Saigon
Before your trip
At the time of writing, American citizens can only get one type of visa- the 30-day, single entry, e-visa. The process is quick and easy, costing only $25, and you can apply here . There are services which will “help” you get a visa, but the process is so easy it is a total waste of money. You will need a scanned copy of your passport and a passport photo, along with the specific dates and locations of your entry and exit to Vietnam. It only took 3 days for us, and we never had to part company with our passports. Check your visa carefully for accuracy! One of mine had a mistake that caused a significant emotional event for me… stay tuned for that story!
If you are leaving Vietnam and coming back, you can just apply for 2 e-visas.
The Airport
The airport (SGN, Tan Son Nhat International Airport) is located about 5 miles outside of the city. It has two terminals, international and domestic.
Arrival
Once you arrive in Saigon, get to the line at immigration as quickly as possible (seriously, pee before you get off the plane), because it gets very long and moves very slowly! You can prebook a “VIP” service, where someone will meet you with a sign and speed you through a special lane at immigration. If you are arriving late or anticipate being very tired, this may be well worth the $80-100. Add a private transfer for about $60, and your arrival will be smooth and hassle-free. My friend used this service and was very pleased- she arrived around 1:00 am and was through immigration and in her private van in about 10 minutes.
We always get a little of the local currency before leaving the airport. You usually get the best exchange rate by withdrawing money from an ATM, but we will exchange a little if we have to. Most of the cabs are cash only, and it just makes sense to have a little money on you when venturing out into any city.
Getting to the City
You can take a bus from the airport to the city for $ 0.50- 2.00. We haven’t done this, but read about how you can here. If you prefer taxis, there are two companies that have a good reputation for being honest and safe- Vinasun and Mai Linh. When we came in, we used some other company and were just fine, but I think he overcharged us. The taxi should be 150,000-200,000 VND, which is $6-8 at the time of writing. You can easily find a taxi right outside of the airport. It can take 30-45 minutes to get to city center, depending on traffic.
Connections
If you have a connection to a domestic flight, the airport can be a bit confusing. After clearing immigration in the international terminal, you go outside and take a right. Walk down the corridor to the left of the Burger King and you will see the domestic terminal. Viet Jet is in the first part, so if your flight is on Vietnam Airlines, keep walking! Hopefully, you have your boarding pass, because figuring out which counter you need to check in at is a challenge. If you chose the VIP service, they will help you navigate.
Security can be confusing if you don’t speak the language, but people are friendly and will help. There are a couple of lounges in the domestic terminal which are nice places to relax for a bit, but tend to be crowded. Everywhere in this terminal was crowded, but the lounges have free food. Priority Pass and Amex Platinum will gain you access to “Le Saigonnais Business Lounge,” which had a nice selection of Vietnamese food, beer, water, and soft drinks. There is also a Vietnam Airlines Lotus Lounge which you can access if you are flying in the premium cabin of a Vietnam Airlines flight or by paying $17. If you don’t have lounge access, there are plenty of food options in the terminal.
Get to your gate early and stay alert- last second gate changes are the rule.
Getting around the city
You can’t go wrong when staying in District 1- anywhere that is not walkable, you can quickly and easily grab a GRAB! This is the Asian version of Uber and includes scooters as well as cars. Live a little! Call a scooter!! Then you can really see the city like a local. We did not have a problem using the Grab app on our iPhone and Samsung Galaxy. We have T-mobile One, which is an international plan with no roaming fees. It has served us well in every country we have visited. Some people have said that you need a local SIM card to use the Grab app, so check with your provider before you go.
You can always call or hail a cab. Remember- Vinasun or Mai Linh.
Walking in Saigon sounds easy but can be nerve-wracking! Crossing the street requires nerves of steel. I have been told to just close my eyes and go, but this is not something I can do. What we found worked was to stand on the side and wait for a small gap. Then we would slowly and steadily make our way across, watching the scooters and cars to find our safest path. It felt a lot like playing frogger! Eh, who am I kidding? Vuong did the above and dragged me by the hand…
Drivers seem to have a system of communication using honks and headlight flashes. We learned that if they honk, do not pass in front of them. If they don’t honk, they (hopefully) see you and will swerve to avoid you. Sometimes, people will hold out their hand as they cross, which (oddly) seemed to work. Good luck.
Highlights and Hidden Gems of Ho Chi Minh City
We booked this tour ahead of time through withlocals.com. Here is a link to the tour. We have used this service a couple of times and have been pleased with the pricing and quality of the tours and guides. This was a 3.5 hour walking tour of the main historical sites in central Saigon. This site allows you to search for tours then choose your guide based on their bio. We chose Huyen because she seemed fun and friendly, and we were so glad we did!
Monument of the Venerable Monk Thich Quang Duc
We met in District 3 at the intersection of Phan Dinh Phung (now Nguyen Dinh Chieu) Street and Le Van Duyet (now Cach Mạng Thang Tam) Street, where the monk Thich Quang Duc immolated himself in 1963 to protest the government’s persecution of Buddhists. He and two other monks drove up, one of them placed a cushion in the intersection, and he sat on it. One of the other monks doused him in gasoline, and he lit a match and dropped it on himself. He quickly burned to death as he sat still and without making a sound.
His body was re-cremated, but his heart did not burn. It was placed in the Xa Loi Pagoda and was considered a holy relic.
His act made a difference for a little while, but then the army started attacking Buddhist pagodas, including Xa Loi. They massacred monks and nuns, and took the monk’s heart. The pagoda is just down the street in District 3, and is definitely worth a visit.
War Remnants Museum
This museum was created shortly after the end of the war to showcase images, media, and materials collected such as fragments of bombs and guns. It is important to visit this museum, but it is a somber, emotionally taxing experience. It tells the story of the war from the side of the victors, the communists. At first, it was called the “Museum of American Atrocities,” but the focus has since shifted to general horrors of war. It is still pretty one-sided in my opinion, but when taken with a critical mind and a little knowledge about the history, it can provide a valuable perspective. It showed the damage to the land and birth defects caused by agent orange, as well as replicas of the prisons and methods of torture used to punish prisoners. Not for children. Admission is less than $1.00.
Reunification Palace
After the war, North and South Vietnam were reunified to form one country. The Reunification Palace used to be the Presidential Palace and was the site of the final blow resulting in the fall of Saigon back in 1975. Inside, you can see the tank that burst through the gate, the war room where battles were planned, and underground labyrinths, as long as state meetings are not in progress. This will cost you less than $1.00.
Notre Dame and the Central Post Office
These beautiful examples of French architecture are stunning and next to one another, surrounding a nice green space. View from the outside or take a peek inside.
Ben Thanh Market
This massive market is a combination of kitschy tourist stalls with magnets, purses, t-shirts, etc, food stalls, and a wet market selling meats, fruits, vegetables, and spices. You can find anything you need or want here, and bargaining is expected. As a general rule, try to pay about half of the originally quoted price. This is a friendly, playful process, so have a good attitude and don’t be an a-hole. We shared a Banh Mi (Vietnamese sandwich) and an avocado shake at one of the food stalls.
Jade Emperor Pagoda
This was one of the coolest pagodas I have ever seen, and possibly my favorite site in Saigon. It was a bit of challenge to find, but we were glad we persisted. It is in district 1, but it was quite a hike from our condo. We should have taken a grab!
Located on a small side street, you enter to a courtyard crowded with a tortoise pond, plants, bonsai trees, figures and statues, and tables with candles. Be sure to take something to cover your shoulders and knees. No one is going to kick you out for flaunting your goods, but it is just the right thing to do. At the time of publication, masks are still required here. Again, no one is going to kick you out, but this is a place of worship for some people. Be respectful. Remove your shoes, walk quietly, and speak in whispers.
The Pagoda
You enter the somewhat creepy pagoda after passing through a little gift shop where you can buy incense and offerings. Incense smoke hangs in the air and adds to the sensory experience while cloaking the statues in further mystery. The overall color scheme is red and black, and the whole complex is packed with statues of big, scary looking dudes ready to judge you. Jade Emperor, or King of Heaven, presides. There are side temples dedicated to a goddess of fertility and many other deities. Buddhists still come here to pray and ask for blessings regarding love, travel, and health.
Admission is free, but there are donation boxes, so take some small money. Get there early, as the pagoda is popular among locals and tourists alike. The address is 73 Mai Thị Lựu Street, District 1.
Dining in Saigon
The One Saigon, where our AirBnB was located, was right next door to a French bakery, Tous les Jours. Each morning, we woke up and headed over there for ca phe sua dat (Vietnamese iced coffee) and pastries.
We had Cantonese food at a nice little place called San Fu Lou in District 1. It is located at the base of the A&B Tower, which contains one of the best rooftop bars in the city- Chill Bar. What a great place to watch the sunset!
We had my favorite Vietnamese food, Banh Xeo, at the Banh Xeo 46a. This place is tucked away in a residential area and is supposed to have the best Banh Xeo in town. Anthony Bourdain agreed! The crepes were amazing and did not disappoint. Worth finding for sure.
Saigon Center is a gigantic mall with tons of high end shops and an amazing selection of restaurants. It is a great place to escape the heat, as the AC is cranked up! I am not a big shopper, but if you are, this is the place for you. It was hard to choose where to eat because of the vast selection, but we settled on Rak Thai. We had a feast of traditional Thai cuisine, including young papaya salad, chicken satay, curry crab, and mango with sticky rice.
We ate at many small food stalls and cafes that would be hard to give directions to or find. Get out there and eat what looks and smells good! Take some antibiotics with you just in case, and experience Vietnam through your belly!
Food Tour
This is a must-do for your visit to Saigon!! We booked this “Ao Dai Saigon Food Tour” through Viator via Tripadvisor. Two twenty-something year old Vietnamese women in purple Ao Dais (the traditional Vietnamese “long shirt”) picked us up on motorbikes and whisked us away to the Ho Thi Ky night market.
Heidi and Navi were fun, smart, vibrant young women with mad scooter-driving skills! Both were working on their college degrees and guiding as a side-hustle. You should totally request them if you book this tour!! Not only did they take great care of us, but they kept in touch with us for the rest of our stay and made recommendations on things to do and eat.
The Food
First, we had Banh Khot, which is like a mini-Banh Xeo topped in pork or shrimp and dipped in fish sauce. Our second stop was for dried noodles called Hu Tieu Tron Kho. Very yummy. We stopped and stood in an alley as we ate Banh Trang Nuong, or “Vietnamese pizza.” It was thin and crunchy, with a sweet sauce on top. Delicious!
Next, we visited snail corner… Oc Loan is a collection of food stalls near the Ho Thi Ky night market run by a very interesting dude. He must’ve been wearing 5 kg of gold, and it was real. He strutted around his kingdom like he owned the place… oh wait, he does! This place is famous amongst snail connoisseurs. Unfortunately for us, they were out of the best varieties of snails and we didn’t like the ones we had. They were big and brown, and I think they were mountain snails. They had little flavor and the consistency was that of really old, chewy shoe leather. We also has scallops, which were delicious, and clams which were just OK.
Night Markets
Night markets are popular in Southeast Asia. It is so hot during the day, social activities are focused on night time. When the sun goes down, food stalls open up! What usually happens is a street or area is closed off to traffic and open only to pedestrians (scooters often ignore this altogether). There will be several food stalls lining the streets, some of which put out chairs and tables. In Vietnam, the table and chairs tend to be tiny. People cruise on foot, socializing and snacking. Night markets tend to be fun, bustling centers of activity.
Ho Thi Ky
Ho Thi Ky is a huge market with two sections- the flower section and the food section. The flower section is huge, with gorgeous colors and smells assaulting the senses. The food section is vast and has all sorts of meat on a stick, stuffed cuttlefish, che (Vietnamese dessert), quail eggs, and any other Vietnamese street food you can think of. This place was a long walk from our condo and we wished we had taken a grab! The address is: 52 Ho Thi Ky, Ward 10, District 01, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam (inside Le Hong Phong apartment complex). Take cash!
Bui Vien
Bui Vien Walking Street is not exactly a night market, but it is a chaotic center of activity that we enjoyed seeing. It is reminiscent of Bourbon Street in New Orleans during Mardi Gras, plus scooters. Yeah, it is called a “walking street,” but scooters still scoot. This street was lined by bars and featured go-go dancers on platforms outside of some of the clubs. Vendors rolled by with their carts, selling snacks and souvenirs. Various types of music, from EDM to classic rock, spilled out of the venues. It seemed like a place to see and be seen, and a pick-up spot for backpackers.
Ben Thanh
I have already mentioned Ben Thanh, which is also open during the day. Stop by in the evenings for cheap eats! It is open until midnight.
There are several other night markets in Saigon, check out a top 8 list here.
Overrated Seafood Buffet
We love watching “Best Ever Food Review Show” and “Strictly Dumpling” on YouTube. Food porn at its finest! These shows are a great way to learn about local cuisine in countries we are planning to visit and I highly recommend both. Which is why when they both raved about the seafood buffet at Hotel Nikko in Saigon, we knew we had to try it.
We are not really buffet people. We are pretty accustomed to eating 5-6 small meals a day, so we usually do not get our money’s worth at buffets. But, with unlimited lobster tails, sushi, creative Asian cuisine, pasta, and free-flowing wine… we figured we would eat $70 worth easily.
The hotel was gorgeous and the service excellent. The presentation of the food was artistic and impressive. There were several tables with chefs creating small plates of selected proteins with various garnishes and little flowers. There were stations for dim sum, sushi, pasta, noodle soup, and prime rib. Some tables held piles of seafood, and others expansive spreads of dessert. It was gorgeous, a feast for the eyes, and we dug in. We ordered several lobster tails and a glass of white wine.
The Singapore style lobster was good. It was prepared with the chili sauce used on chili crabs in Singapore. The rest of the lobster tails were kind of bland and a little rubbery. The remainder of the food suffered from the typical problems with buffet food- not hot, a little tough, just seemed like it had been sitting out for a while. We had booked the earliest reservation at 6:00 pm so we could get the food while it was fresh, but no luck. It felt to me like “quantity over quality,” and I just can’t recommend it.
Have you been to the seafood buffet at Hotel Nikko? What did you think? I hope your experience was better than ours!
Until Next Time…
What do you think about our time in Saigon? Have you been or are you planning to go? We think you should put in on your bucket list! What a vibrant, lively city.
Next month, read about our bicycle trip with Art of Bicycle Trips. We spent 9 days traveling from Saigon, Vietnam to Siem Reap, Cambodia to experience Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom.