Travel to Bali- Reunited on the Island of the Gods. Kiss Me, Ketut!

Pre-Trip Planning

Are you interested in Traveling to Bali? Bali has become one of our favorite places on earth. We don’t often revisit specific locations, but there is just something about Bali. It is an enchanting, diverse island that holds a special place in our hearts. Check out my photo gallery from our trip to Bali here https://jenniferspath.org/travel-photo-gallery/

I had heard about Bali, but never really considered that I would be able to travel to such a place. When Vuong was serving in Afghanistan on his second deployment in 2013, we decided to do something crazy for R&R. During the 2 weeks of leave he received while on deployment, the army would fly him anywhere in the world. He scheduled his leave for February, and we decided we wanted to surf.

Minimal research revealed that Bali was an ideal place to surf in February. After a little more research, I found condos through Vuong’s Worldmark timeshare’s exchange program with RCI. Now, these condos are typically very nice, but not ideally located. I booked a few days in Sanur and a few days in Candidasa. Because of the money we saved booking timeshare, I was able to splurge a bit on a villa with a private pool in Ubud. Bali can be very inexpensive, and it is possible to show up and find a nice place for cheap (I will share another experience later). But, given that I was traveling to Bali alone (Vuong was to meet me there) and this was relatively early in our travel career, I wanted to have our accommodations arranged ahead of time.

What About Bali?

Bali is a province of Indonesia and practices Balinese Hinduism in a Muslim-majority country. The Balinese are very devout, and much of their daily lives hinge around rituals and offerings. For such a small island (the island of Bali is about 93 x 70 miles), it exhibits great diversity due to Hindu, Chinese, and Indian influence.

I enjoy reading books about destinations before, during, and after trips. Also, I collect guidebooks 

Books I used for Bali include:

• Take Off Your Shoes by Ben Feder | Audiobook | Audible.com
• Frommer’s Bali and Lombok (Frommer’s Complete Guides): Lin-Liu, Jen, Lee, Candice: 9781118096000: Books: Amazon.com
• Lonely Planet Bali & Lombok (Travel Guide): Lonely Planet, Morgan, Kate, Ver Berkmoes, Ryan: 9781786575456: Books – Amazon
• If you want to learn about the dark side of the island: Snowing in Bali by Kathryn Bonella | Audiobook | Audible.com
• And of course Eat, Pray, Love by Elizabeth Gilbert | Audiobook | Audible.com

Day 1

Flight

Cathay Pacific’s coach cabin was excellent. I have to say up front that I love flying- I am short, so I never have an issue with legroom. I love staring out of the window and watching the lights disappear as wispy clouds envelope the airplane. Seeing our plane part the tops of the clouds helps me visualize flying away from stress and worry and leaving it all behind. Then finally watching as the landscape, seascape, or cityscape comes into view and I can see the overall picture of the place we are about to explore.

I even enjoy airports, especially now that I have lounge access. The Amex Platinum card American Express Platinum Card® – Elevated Offers & Benefits is great for this, as you gain access to the Centurion Lounge with it. Priority Pass is another great perk that comes with this card, as well as many other premium cards. The loungebuddy app Airport Lounges: Reviews & Club Access Worldwide | LoungeBuddy has lots of great info about which lounges are available at any given airport. Disclaimer- I do not receive commission or payment from anyone yet! No ulterior motives here, just offering info.

People watching is a favorite pastime, observing the travelers and imagining where they are going and where they came from. I always find international flights fun, even in coach. Gotta have my eye mask for the pesky lights, earplugs in case of screaming children, neck pillow, and blanket and I am good to go. I read a book on my kindle for a while, watch a movie with my dinner and glass of wine, then sleep. Cathay’s seats were roomy, food was tasty, and service was excellent. Layovers in Hong Kong were fun, although I didn’t leave the airport. 

Arrival

Flying into Bali’s Ngurah Rai International Airport in Denpasar is an experience in itself! The airport is right by the water, and as you fly in it REALLY feels like you are landing in the water. It is so close, that a couple of months later, a plane would miss the runway and make a water landing, after which surviving passengers swam to shore! Miraculously, all passengers survived. So pay attention to how that flotation device works…Bali plane crash: passengers swim for their lives | Bali | The Guardian

I had to get a visa on arrival which was kind of annoying, as the airport was hot and there was a long line. I arrived before Vuong, so I did all this by myself. Caught a cab to our first destination, Sanur. In Bali, most of the taxis are blue in color. It is recommended to only use “Blue Bird” taksis, as they have the best reputation, and to negotiate a rate up front. 

This was my first time in Asia. My senses were assaulted with smells, sounds, and the heavy humidity. The most striking thing on my drive to Sanur was the motor scooter traffic! Hundreds of them, all over, swarming around the few cars and pedestrians that braved the roads. Balinese people could carry anything on these scooters-suitcases, cages full of chickens, huge bundles of plants, their spouses and children (it was not uncommon to see a family of four on one scooter). It was absolute chaos! And it was HOT.

Sanur, Bali

I arrived at our accommodation for the first few days- Royal Bali Beach Club Sanur. It was on a busy, dingy road, but once you passed through the gate, it was a serene retreat. Santi greeted me with a cool towel and mango juice, then escorted me to our room on the second floor, in a long, U-shaped building that surrounded the pool. The air smelled of frangipani (AKA plumeria), and this scent conjures memories of Bali to this day. Our room was a standard hotel room, with a king-sized bed outfitted in crisp, white linens and accented with a red bird of paradise. We had a small table on which there was an orchid, a coffee pot, a TV, and a standard bathroom.

Vuong arrived later that evening, and we were finally reunited! We freshened up then had dinner at the resort. Vuong made the best choice, with Rendang Sapi (beef rendang), a beef braised in spiced coconut milk. I had fish wrapped in a banana leaf, Pesan be pasih.

Day 2

We spent several days in and around Sanur. After getting reacquainted over fresh coconuts at a beachfront restaurant called “Retro,” we took a walk down the paved beachfront trail. Here, we met a guide with whom we felt an instant kinship, Nyoman. He was to be our friend and tour leader for the next few days. I don’t think he had formal training, and his summary of history was typically “it is from long time ago,” but he was really fun and sweet. Another Nyoman quote was “I am happy! I am Balinese! I do to you!” Which is something he said when he would get super-excited about showing us a site or telling a story.

Aside- A word about names. In Bali, kids typically receive certain names based on birth order, and these names vary according to region. The most common ones are

• 1st kid- Wayan
• 2nd- Made
• 3rd- Nyoman
• 4th- Ketut
• 5th- Wayan Balik (this means Wayan again), and so forth. 

Uluwatu

Nyoman and his brother, Ketut, picked us up that afternoon and took us to a spectacular setting for sunset. Uluwatu is a small temple most impressive for its location on a cliff near Padang Padang beach. We donned purple sarongs and began to explore the area. In all the temples in Bali, modesty is key- knees and shoulders must be covered. Wearing the sarongs added an extra element of charm to each temple visit, and Vuong looked an awful lot like a monk with his bald head!

Uluwatu is inhabited by Macaque monkeys and is one of the sites for the Kecak Dance. This is a traditional Balinese Dance performed by 70 or so men who chant “Kecak,” and beautiful women in dramatic makeup who emote with their eyes and hands. The performance tells the story of Rama and Sita, the Balinese Romeo and Juliet. The sunset over the ocean provided a stunning backdrop for this mesmerizing performance. 

Jimbaran Bay

Then it was off to Jimbaran Bay for dining on the beach. We were able to choose our own seafood and have it prepared fresh right in front of us! Food was very economical in Bali, and we were in the mood for lobster. They were the colorful spiny type, and Vuong chose the largest one he could find at around 5 pounds! We added a red snapper and the meal was served with a variety of spicy sauces. It was delicious, complemented by Bintang beer and the feel of the sand between our toes. A serenade from a Balinese Mariachi Band perfected the evening. Imagine our surprise when the bill for dinner came to around 3 MILLION Indonesian Rupiah, about $200. 

Days 3-4

Around Sanur

When we travel, we like to mix it up a bit. Our default setting is active, go-go-go… but we do like to take it easy a bit. We love to wander and explore places on foot, taking time to get lost and let life happen. We slept in for a couple of days, wandered the town, shopped and ate. Throughout our trip, we had $5 massages every day!

Warung Little Bird

Warungs are local Balinese restaurants. It was here that we found the cheapest, tastiest, and most authentic Balinese food. Our favorite in Sanur was Warung Little Bird. Lunch cost around $2-3, and Bintang beer was around $1. Many of the more upscale restaurants offered a driver, and one evening Putu took us to Rib restaurant. The food was delicious, and Putu was so kind. He worked on a cruise ship for 6 month stints, where he made a decent salary. At home, not so much. He shared his Kopi Luwak with us.

Kopi Luwak

Kopi Luwak is also known as poop coffee. The civet cat chooses the bets coffee berries, eats them, digests them, and poops them out. Workers sift through the poop and retrieve the berries, cleaning, roasting, and grinding them to make what used to be the most expensive coffee in the world. It did not taste like poo, but it was not that special. It had floral notes and was mild, good coffee. Definitely not worth $100 a pound!

We tried wakeboarding in Sanur… well, I tried it. Vuong actually did it…

Surfing in Kuta

That afternoon, we endured the two-plus hour drive to Kuta for a surf lesson from Evan at Dekom Bali Surf School – Surf School Bali, Learn to Surf Bali, Surf Lessons Bali (dekomsurf.com). We both had a great day surfing despite the relentless waves that churned like a washing machine.

Day 5- Valentine’s Day

Our Valentine’s Day was relaxing and romantic. Aroma Day Spa in Sanur was an open-air oasis, featuring a courtyard with a waterfall feeding into a Koi pond. Flowering Bougainvillea vines pollinated by bees the size of hummingbirds lined columns and walls. The couples’ area had an outdoor bathtub sprinkled with rose petals. Here, we had Ayurvedic foot treatments, body brushing and scrubs, and a couples massage. That evening, we enjoyed dinner at CharMing consisting of beef cheeks and tagine lamb, followed by dessert at Three Monkeys. Pro-tip- To my palate, Balinese wine is not good. Stick with the fresh juices or Bintang beer.

Day 6

Tanah Lot

Vuong’s favorite temple was one of Bali’s seven sea temples, Tanah Lot. Constructed of black stone, it is surrounded by sculptures of dragons and snakes. Its location is dramatic, perched on a large rock in the sea which can only be reached at low tide. Since it is said to be protected by venomous sea snakes, we refrained from swimming out. We walked the trails in the area and ended up at a small warung on a cliff, where we had crispy curry shrimp. Turns out, they were crispy because the shells and heads were left on! Smothered in curry sauce, it was too messy to remove the shells, so we ate them. Not bad!

What do you think about our trip to Bali so far?? Come back next time to hear about how we hung out with distant relatives at the Monkey Forest, got diagnosed by a traditional Balinese healer, and got shaken down by the authorities! And what is the deal with Rhonda and Ketut?

Check out my photo gallery from our first trip to Bali here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.124255030278309&type=3