After leaving Kusadasi, Türkiye on our Mediterranean Cruise aboard Royal Caribbean’s Brilliance of the Seas, we headed back to Greece! Check out the first parts of our cruise here, here, and here. Also, check out my packing list to level up your cruise here.

Santorini, Greece

Santorini is one of those places on so many people’s bucket lists. It is beautiful, with its limestone plaster-coated villas carpeting the hillside, and its iconic blue roofs and infinity pools adding pops of color against a stark white background. It did not disappoint… but, now I recommend skipping this as a cruise port.

When we first visited in 2016, it was crowded but not overly crowded. We stopped by on another cruise in 2024, and it was miserable. It was hot, way too crowded, and there was a ton of traffic. If you want to visit this island, I recommend flying to Athens and taking a ferry. Stay a while. Rent one of those whitewashed cave houses in Oia with a sparkling blue infinity pool overlooking the Aegean Sea. Explore the island that way, rather than doing a hit and run from a cruise ship. Or, check out some of the less known Greek Islands like Folegandros, Samothraki, or Kythnos.

Arriving in Santorini

When you dock in Santorini, at least on most large cruise ships, you are well below the town of Fira and have to get to the top. The cruise ships actually dock offshore, so you’ll need to take a tender boat from the ship to the shore. *Be sure to allow extra time for the tender ride!

If you are on a cruise excursion, they will tell you exactly what to do and probably take you there. If you are on your own or booked an independent tour, you will need to find your way up. There are three ways to do this: take a donkey, walk the donkey trail, or take a cable car, I strongly recommend the cable car. The walk can be steep, hot, and the trail littered with donkey poo. It’s about 600 steps. Riding the donkeys is a bad idea- they are not treated well. The cable car is scenic, cheap (about 6 euro), and fast. Unless there is a line. Again, leave plenty of time!

Note that the famous town that you always hear about and see pix of, with the blue tones, is Oia (pronounced ee-ah), and you will need transportation from Fira to Oia. If you are on a cruise ship, it is best to arrange transportation ahead of time or see Oia as part of a tour. If you have more time, the hike is supposed to be spectacular. The hike is about 6 miles along the exposed caldera ridge. Start early, take water and sunscreen, and send me pix!! Next time…

*Recommended independent itinerary: You could get yourself to Oia town, then descend the 300 steps to Ammoudi Port, where you can dine on the freshest seafood with your toes in the sand, shop, watch the sunset, and just have a lovely time without much stress. If you must visit Santorini on a cruise, and want the iconic experience, consider this itinerary. Next time I visit, this is my plan:

1. Get Up to Fira Quickly

• Get off the ship as early as possible- try to catch one of the first tenders.

• Take the cable car from the old port (3 minutes, €6).

• Avoid walking the 600 steps if time is tight.

2. Go Straight to Oia

• Public bus (20–30 min, ~€2, leaves every 20–30 min).

• Or pre-book a shuttle/taxi/transfer to save time (recommended).

• Arrive in Oia before it gets too crowded.

3. Explore Oia Town (1.5–2 hrs)

• Wander the marble alleys, take photos at the famous blue domes.

• Pop into boutiques, grab a coffee or snack.

• If you’re into sunset views, note that from Oia center you’d need to stay later—but that can be risky with cruise timings.

4. Walk Down to Ammoudi Bay (15–20 min down)

• Take the 300-step path down from Oia’s castle area.

• Enjoy a seafood lunch at one of the tavernas (book ahead if you want a prime spot). Look at: Dimitris, Ammoudi Fish Tavern, and Sunset by Paraskevas.

• Optional: walk along the rocks for a swim/cliff jump at the little cove.

5. Return to Oia (30+ min up)

• Walking back up is steep and slow—budget extra time.

• If you’re pressed for time, ask your restaurant or boat operator to help call a taxi from Ammoudi (limited, but possible).

6. Head Back to Fira

• Take the bus/taxi/shuttle back.

• Be at Fira at least 1–1.5 hours before last tender, since cable car lines can be very long in the afternoon. We barely made it to the last tender last time. They won’t wait for you!

Private Yacht Charter

I almost hate to tell you about this after recommending that you skip cruises that visit Santorini. We had such an amazing day there… We were able to charter a yacht for a half day for all 6 of us for around $500. Unfortunately, this was because the Greek economy was failing and tourism was down.

We did our small part to help 🙂 and had a top travel experience to boot. We booked through Santorini Yachting Club, and their prices are significantly higher now. Totally worth it still, especially if you can find a few other people to share the cost.

We took the cable car up to Fira town and walked to the Hertz car rental office where our guide collected us. Fira town is adorable and has lots of great shops and quaint cafes. It is touristy, but it is absolutely lovely. Honestly, you’d be fine spending your day here.

Our guide drive us to Oia and then down to Ammoudi Port, where we boarded our private yacht. Our shoes went into a bucket and we were greeted by Fotis and Mylinda. Vuong, Justin, and I set up our towels on the front of the boat, whiles Tina, Viet, and Alex went up top with Captain Fotis so Alex could drive!

We sailed around the western side of Santorini and saw several small outlying islands with fishing huts and little restaurants. We navigated between island of black volcanic rock. There are several pockets of warm water from volcanic hot springs underneath, and we stopped for a swim.

*Pro tip: Wear dark colored suits if you plan to swim here! The iron content of the water is so high that it will stain your clothes orange!

We swam in the sulfur-scented water, watching seagulls play and taking in the otherworldly surroundings for about an hour, then climbed back onboard for a fabulous lunch of the freshest Greek salad, juicy chicken and pork, and pasta with a nice white Greek wine. After lunch, we “enjoyed” a shot of licorice-flavored ouzo as we headed back to the main island. Our “Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous” tasting tour was over…

Island Tour

We booked an island tour with Pagonis Tours for the second half of our day. Our guide (he was underwhelming and I don’t even remember his name) picked us up in a black luxury VIP van with white leather seats, which was pretty posh and very comfy.

Beaches

Santorini isn’t just about dramatic cliffs and whitewashed villages—it also has some truly unique beaches shaped by its volcanic past. Perissa and Kamari are the most famous black-sand beaches, with long stretches of pebbly shore, crystal-clear water, and plenty of tavernas and beach bars for a laid-back day by the sea. For something even more striking, head to Red Beach near Akrotiri, where the towering crimson cliffs and dark sand create a surreal, otherworldly backdrop. Each beach offers a different vibe, but together they show off the island’s raw volcanic beauty. Note: the dark sand is extra HOT!

Book a cruise excursion or your own transportation ahead of time for an stress-free visit. If you’re feeling more adventurous, rent a scooter and drive yourself.

Here’s a suggested itinerary. Click the links for details:

Scooter Trip from Fira to Santorini’s Beaches: Route & Tips

Starting Point: Fira

• Begin your ride from Fira, the island’s central hub atop the caldera.

Route Highlights:

• Fira → Perissa (Black Sand Beach): Ride southeast through Mesaria, Pyrgos, Emporio. You’ll arrive at the long, iconic black-sand beach of Perissa. This is roughly 11–13 km, or about 15–25 minutes by vehicle. SantorinikaWikipedia

• Continue: Perissa → Vlychada: Just a short ride further along the coast, Vlychada offers dramatic, moon-like cliffs and quieter surroundings. santorinibus.comsantorini-moto-chris.com

• Final stretch: Vlychada → Red Beach: Head west to Akrotiri. You’ll pass the archaeological site and then arrive at the surreal Red Beach, nestled beneath sheer crimson cliffs. Santorini-View.comRome2Riosantorini-moto-chris.com

Total Trip Distance: Approximately 20 km round trip, depending on detours.

Tips for a Smooth Scooter Adventure

1. Plan Your Stops: Spend maybe 45 minutes at each beach so you can enjoy all three without rushing.

2. Check Timing: From Fira to Red Beach takes about 20 minutes, with bus prices for comparison around €2–3—but buses lack the flexibility and access. Rome2Riosantorinibus.com

3. Safety First: Stay alert on winding roads, wear a helmet, and apply sunscreen.

4. Fuel Up: Make sure your scooter has enough fuel—gas stations are sparse in remote areas.

5. Beach Essentials: Bring water, snacks, swimwear, and maybe a camera for cliffside snaps.

| Time | Activity |
| ——— | ———————————- |
| 0:00 | Depart Fira toward Perissa |
| 0:20–0:45 | Beach time at Perissa |
| 0:45–1:05 | Ride to Vlychada |
| 1:05–1:25 | Explore Vlychada’s dramatic cliffs |
| 1:25–1:45 | Head to Red Beach via Akrotiri |
| 1:45–2:10 | Swim or relax at Red Beach |
| 2:10–2:30 | Return to Fira |
santorini-moto-chris.com

Monastery of Prophet Elias

Our driver took us up the winding road to the highest point on Santorini, the Monastery of the Prophet Elias, atop Mount Profitis Ilias. We took in the views and looked around a bit, but the monastery itself is closed to visitors unless there is a service going on. Services are around 7 am, so you aren’t likely to catch one on a cruise excursion. But if you are staying on the island, this would be a great experience.

Ruins of Akrotiri

We have not made it to Akrotiri, but if you are into ruins, archeology, and history, try to get there!

The ancient ruins of Akrotiri are one of Santorini’s most fascinating sites, often nicknamed the “Pompeii of the Aegean.”

A visit feels like stepping back in time, offering a glimpse into daily life over 3,500 years ago, and it’s an incredible way to connect Santorini’s dramatic landscape with its deep history. Visiting the ancient ruins of Akrotiri felt like stepping back over 3,500 years into a perfectly preserved Bronze Age city. Buried under volcanic ash around 1600 BC, the town’s multi-story buildings, paved streets, and vivid frescoes give a fascinating glimpse of life on Santorini long before the modern villages appeared.

Getting there from Fira is easy—just a 20–25 minute drive or a short ride on the local bus—and tickets are around €12, with combo options if you want to include the Archaeological Museum of Thera. We found the morning hours to be the quietest, letting us explore without crowds while enjoying the shade of the site’s protective roof. Bonus: Akrotiri is just a stone’s throw from Red Beach, making it easy to pair history with a splash in the striking red sands.

Fira

Fira is the lively heartbeat of Santorini, perched dramatically on the edge of the caldera with breathtaking views of the volcano and the sparkling Aegean below. Wandering its narrow, winding streets, we stumbled across charming cafés, boutique shops, and little whitewashed churches with those iconic blue domes. It’s a perfect mix of energy and scenery!

After our tour, we had time to grab a delicious gyro to go and do a little shopping.

Next came our donkey downfall… we questioned our life choices as we mounted our four-legged taxis and began to lope down the steep slope. By the time we reached the bottom, we weren’t just sore, we were sincerely apologetic, silently promising the next four-legged traveler we’d never volunteer them for such a precarious downhill gig again.

Valetta, Malta

The HOHO bus to hell!

OK, so you can’t win them all. Malta was a spectacular, beautiful island. When we visited, it was crowded, hot, and has tons of traffic, and we made the mistake of NOT booking a tour for this day. Instead, we hopped on a HOHO bus… never to hop off!

I think the island was so crowded because of our cruise ship. If you are visiting on a cruise, I highly recommend either booking a tour through the cruise ship, booking an independent walking tour, or exploring the city on your own on foot. I’d be worried about getting back to the ship on time with an independent driving tour, because traffic was a nightmare.

*Pro Tip: Get up early and head to the top deck for the approach. At sunrise, sailing into Valletta feels like gliding into history. The Grand Harbour glows gold as the first light hits the limestone fortifications, towering above the water like guardians of the past. On either side, the Three Cities reveal domes, spires, and colorful balconies, while small boats drift across the calm sea. Ahead, Valletta’s skyline unfolds—the dome of the Carmelite Church, the spire of St. Paul’s, and rows of grand palaces. Bathed in sunlight, the city looks carved from stone and sky, making this arrival one of the most breathtaking in the Mediterranean.

We caught a Hop-On, Hop-Off bus with the intent of, well, hopping off at some of the island’s sites and attractions. Specifically, we wanted to see Popeye Village. But the bus was so crowded, and the driver had to turn away several groups of tourists waiting to hop on. We were afraid that, if we hopped off, we’d never be able to hop back on and would miss the ship. In addition, the only seats available were on the top level of the bus, which was open to the sun.

We covered as best we could with beach towels from the ship and tried to make the best of it. The island was beautiful. There were very few sandy beaches, but every flat rock or promontory was covered with people sunning. Commentary on the bus was minimal, the heat was brutal, and the whole tour was pretty stressful.

Apparently this HOHO bus is awful even if you aren’t on a cruise. The internet is filled with complaints about rude staff, crowded conditions, long wait times, and unreliable schedules. DON’T DO IT!!

 

Things to do in Malta

We have to go back. We missed pretty much everything.

Here’s a Top 10 list of things to do in Malta, with quick highlights so you can see the best of the islands:

1. Explore Valletta – The capital city is a UNESCO site packed with Baroque architecture, St. John’s Co-Cathedral, and sweeping harbor views from the Upper Barrakka Gardens.

2. Visit Mdina – The “Silent City,” a walled medieval town with narrow alleys, palaces, and panoramic views. Magical by day, atmospheric by night.

3. Ħaġar Qim & Mnajdra Temples – 5,000-year-old megalithic temples older than Stonehenge, perched dramatically above the sea.

4. Blue Grotto – A series of sea caves where sunlight turns the water brilliant shades of blue; best visited by boat.

5. Gozo Island – Malta’s quieter sister island, known for rugged scenery, beaches like Ramla Bay, and the Citadel in Victoria.

6. Comino & the Blue Lagoon – A tiny island famous for its turquoise swimming and snorkeling spot, one of Malta’s most iconic views.

7. Marsaxlokk Fishing Village – A colorful harbor town with traditional boats (luzzus) and a famous Sunday fish market.

8. Fort St. Elmo & War Museum – Key site of the 1565 Great Siege, now housing fascinating military history exhibits.

9. Popeye Village –is a kitschy, quirky theme park built around the film set from the 1980 movie starring Robin Williams as Popeye and Shelley Duvall as Olive Oil. It was such a fun movie, and we are totally into weird and wonderful “cultural experiences.” This place would be fantastic for kids, with all sorts of activities for them. There’s plenty of stuff for grownups as well, especially the young-at-heart. You can tour the film set, play mini-golf, hang out in the sun, and snack.

10. Sliema & St. Julian’s Promenade – A lively waterfront area with cafés, shopping, nightlife, and a coastal walk with stunning sea views.

Since a cruise stop usually gives you very limited time, here are the top 3 experiences that balance history, beauty, and ease of access:

1. Explore Valletta (UNESCO Capital) – Walkable straight from the port. Don’t miss St. John’s Co-Cathedral, the Upper Barrakka Gardens (with stunning harbor views), and a stroll through the golden limestone streets.

2. Mdina, the Silent City – About 20 minutes by taxi/bus. This walled medieval town feels frozen in time with quiet alleys, palaces, and sweeping island views.

3. Blue Grotto or Marsaxlokk (if you prefer scenery or local life) – The Blue Grotto offers dazzling sea caves and boat rides; Marsaxlokk gives you colorful fishing boats and fresh seafood by the water.

👉 Together, these give you a taste of Malta’s history, charm, and natural beauty without overpacking your schedule. Go! Enjoy it, and tell me all about it…

We had one more sea day and, just like that, our cruise was over. We disembarked in Barcelona and did a tour with Barcelona Day Tours. Read about our time in Barcelona here. 

Paris, France

Getting There

OK, so none of us is perfect. I made another questionable choice on this trip. I booked flights from Barcelona to Paris on Vueling Airlines. While the ticket price was great, the overall experience left me a bit annoyed. The flight itself was fine once we got going, but there were delays at the airport and barely any communication from the airline about what was happening.

Onboard, everything beyond the seat costs extra—even a simple croissant and coffee set me back five euros. The plane was clean and modern, but the legroom was tight, and it definitely felt like a no-frills operation. If you’re just looking for the cheapest way to hop between European cities and don’t mind a few hiccups, Vueling gets the job done. But if punctuality and good service matter to you, it might be worth paying a bit more for another airline.

We flew from the main airport in Barcelona (BCN) to the secondary airport in Paris, which is Orly (ORY). We picked up our bags and caught a cab… then our visit quickly turned around. We had the funniest, friendliest cab driver. Andre entertained us with stories the entire ride to our hotel. We didn’t understand everything he said (his English was heavily accented), but he thought his stories were hilarious! And he had a boisterous, loud laugh that was infectious… He actually did the “croissant laugh” a couple of times!

Hotel Atmospheres

We stayed at a lovely hotel in the Latin Quarter near St. Germain de Pres, Hotel Atmospheres. This was in the 5th arrondissement, which is on the left bank of the Seine. The left bank is known for its culture of art and literature, student life, and bohemian charm. We were located between the Pantheon and Notre Dame de Paris, and were surrounded by lovely cafes and shops.

Rooms at the Hotel Atmospheres go for around 300-400 Euro, and suites will cost up to 600 Euro. We were upgraded to a large suite, and it was fantastic. It was perfect for the 3 of us, with a downstairs living room with fold-out couch, seating area, and bathroom, and an upstairs loft with a bedroom, bathroom, and a sauna!

La Pre Verre

The front desk agent, Regis, reminded us of a French Quentin Tarantino. He was so warm, friendly and helpful! He recommended a nearby restaurant for dinner, La Pre Verre, which has closed permanently. It has been replaced by L’invitee, which looks good, but I can’t attest to that!

We had so many interesting dishes here: pig’s head pate with a puree of dates with vinegar sauce, piglet fondant with sweet spices and crunchy cabbage, female duck filet with polenta, tataki beef with purple potatoes, poached peaches with white chocolate mousse, and a perfectly paired French red wine. These dishes sounded so much better in French, but they tasted amazing in any language!

About Le Pré Verre

Le Pré Verre was a celebrated bistronomy spot that opened in 2003 at 8 Rue Thénard, 75005 Paris, just steps from the Sorbonne and the Musée de Cluny. It closed its doors permanently in summer of 2025.

Originally founded by brothers Marc and Philippe Delacourcelle, the restaurant quickly gained a reputation for combining home-cooked French fare with subtle Asian spices, an inventive approach within the bistro tradition Bonjour Paris. After the Delacourcelles, Jean-François Paris took over in 2013, maintaining the welcoming vibe, creative menu, and poetic décor, including wall frescos and verses inspired by poet Jacques Prévert.

Other Choices in the Area

Ideal For	Bistro & Link
Cozy, traditional French fare	Le Bistrot du Périgord, La Petite Périgourdine
Creative and modern twists	Baca’v, Hugo & Co, OTTO
Romantic, scenic, classic French	La Rôtisserie d’Argent
Quaint café vibe with wine & light fare	Café de la Nouvelle Mairie, Les Papilles

Paris by Night

Justin went back to the room, and Vuong and I took a romantic stroll along the Seine. We walked down amber-lit sidewalks by the river to Rue de Bernardins, where we crossed a bridge to the Ile de la Cite, where Notre Dame de Paris is located. This is an island in the middle of the River Seine, and it was absolutely magical at night. Its facade and flying buttresses were illuminated, and the lights reflected in the choppy waters of the river. We watched teenagers dancing and playing by the river, imagining what it must have been like to grow up here.

It became windy and started to rain. Luckily, we had an umbrella and I always wear a scarf when walking around Europe. So, we covered ourselves and continued our romantic walk back to the hotel.

Whirlwind Tour of Paris

I didn’t book a tour for this day, because I felt like I knew the city well enough. I’d been a couple of times, and believe it or not, I remembered a lot from high school French. My French teacher, Brenda Newsome, taught us so much about France beyond the language. She sparked the first inkling of wanderlust in me at the tender age of 16 during my French III class. She’d have us translate pages and pages of historical stories from French to English, which helped the language stick with me well into adulthood.

She taught us that Paris is laid out like a snail’s shell or a spiral, with its 20 administrative districts, or arrondissements, radiating clockwise from the city center around the Île de la Cité. The Seine River runs through the city, dividing it into the Right Bank (north) and the Left Bank (south). The arrondissements start with the 1st at the center, and the numbering increases as you spiral outwards to the 20th in the northeast.

Here’s a very basic map that shows the main sites:

Paris is surprisingly easy to navigate. Much of the central part is walkable, and the Metro (their subway) is convenient and user-friendly. Read about how to use it here.

Pro Tip: Check the last digits of a Paris postal code (e.g., 75001, 75002) to determine the arrondissement of a specific address.

We started our day at a typical French bakery with croissants, eclairs, and coffee in the Latin Quarter, then walked down the Blvd Saint Michel to Notre Dame. We took the Metro from the Notre Dame St. Michel stop to the Eiffel Tower. We couldn’t access the grassy area in front of it because they were broadcasting a soccer game, but normally that area is perfect for photos, picnics, and just relaxing and feeling Parisian.

We walked through a lovely market with cheese, meat, produce, clothing, etc…and eventually made our way to the Arc de Triomphe.

The Arc is surrounded by what must be the biggest, most chaotic traffic circle in Europe. Luckily, there’s a pedestrian tunnel that takes you to it. This iconic monument was commissioned by Napoleon in 1806 to honor French military victories, particularly those of the Napoleonic Wars. Standing 164 feet tall, it features sculptures and reliefs of historical scenes, and is topped by a tomb for France’s Unknown Soldier with a perpetual flame. The arch also offers panoramic views of Paris from its terrace and is a focal point for national events like Bastille Day military parades.

The Champs Elysees is the iconic avenue that extends from the Place de L’Ecole (where the Arc de Triomphe sits) to the Place de la Concorde, which was the home of the guillotine during the French Revolution (Then it was called the Place de la Revolution, and Marie Antoinette, Louis XVI, and Robespierre were beheaded here), and now houses the Luxor Obelisk. This marks the beginning of the Tuileries Gardens, which extend to The Louvre. You can see the Tuileries from a distance, because there’s a giant ferris wheel, The Grande Roue de Paris. When we visited, the wheel was in the Place de la Concorde, but they moved it to the gardens for the 2024 Olympics.

We stopped for lunch at a cafe called Cafe George V right on the Champs Elysees, which was touristy and overpriced, but IMO totally worth it and still wonderful! We enjoyed people watching while we noshed on croquet madame, crepes and, of course, French wine.

The walk from the Arc to the Louvre is about 4.2 km (2.6 miles), but there is so much to see. Take your time and follow this route to discover some recognizable and hidden gems along the way:

Hidden Gems Walking Route: Arc de Triomphe → Louvre

1. Arc de Triomphe

• Start at the top of the Arc for a panoramic view of the city’s famous radial avenues.

• Hidden tip: Walk around the base; the underground passage is safer than crossing the traffic circle.

2. Avenue Montaigne (5–10 min detour)

• Turn off the Champs-Élysées for a quieter, luxurious street lined with high-end fashion boutiques.

• Small galleries and chic cafés offer a more intimate Parisian feel.

3. Champs-Élysées

• Walk down the avenue, keeping an eye out for hidden gardens behind the buildings, especially near the Grand Palais and Petit Palais.

• Cross into the Petit Palais courtyard (free entry) for art and peaceful architecture.

4. Pont Alexandre III (optional detour, 5–10 min)

• From Petit Palais, stroll toward the Seine and cross this ornate bridge.

• Spot gilded statues, nymphs, and cherubs—it’s arguably the most beautiful bridge in Paris.

5. Place de la Concorde

• Enter from the Champs-Élysées end.

• Look closely at the fountains, statues, and the Luxor Obelisk.

• Hidden tip: The north side has small alleys leading to cafes not crowded with tourists.

6. Tuileries Gardens

• Enter at the Place de la Concorde side.

• Wander off the main paths into quieter alleys.

• Look for sculptures by Arman and Maillol, and small fountains where locals sit and relax.

• Hidden cafes: Café des Marronniers or Angelina (garden entrance side) for a hot chocolate break.

7. Rue de Rivoli (north edge of Tuileries)

• Exit the gardens and walk along Rue de Rivoli toward the Louvre.

• Notice the small arcades and historic architecture; there are tiny shops and art galleries tucked in.

8. Louvre Museum

• End at the famous glass pyramid entrance.

• Hidden tip: The Carrousel du Louvre entrance (underground mall) is less crowded than the main pyramid line.

---

Extra Secret Spots

• Medici Fountain (slightly south in the Luxembourg area) if you want a detour.

• Passage du Grand Cerf (hidden arcade) if you want vintage shopping before reaching the Louvre.

---

Pigalle

We took the metro from the Louvre back to Notre Dame. We went inside and did the audio tour, which was fine. The church was, of course spectacular, with its stained glass rose windows, murals, and statues. We lit a candle for Vuong’s ailing grandmother, and headed back to the Metro.

We had to change trains at Gare du Nord, which was an interesting experience. It is the busiest train station in Europe and a major hub in Paris. It was huge, like a mall here in the US. We had to literally push our way onto the train, but it was a fun experience overall. Our final stop was called Pigalle.

“Pigalle” refers to a district in Paris, France, named after the 18th-century sculptor Jean-Baptiste Pigalle. It is primarily known for the Place Pigalle public square and the surrounding area, which is historically associated with artists such as Toulouse-Latrec and Van Gogh, and, more notably today, as a vibrant hub for Parisian nightlife, including theaters, bars, and the famous Moulin Rouge. The district also carries a historical reputation as the Paris Red Light District, a nickname that emerged during World War II.

The area definitely maintains a sexy, sultry vibe which mainly comes to life at night. We exited the Metro station onto a side road with lots of junk vendors, where I picked up a Christmas ornament. We looked up to see the Sacré-Cœur Basilica materialize in front of us. The Sacré-Cœur is a beautiful white Travertine Catholic Church that sits atop the highest point of Montmartre, a large hill in the 18th arrondissement. It is my favorite site in Paris!

After a dinner of fondue and creme caramel at Le Paname, we had some time to kill so we ducked into Le Chat Noir. Le Chat Noir was the place to be in late 19th-century Paris—a smoky little cabaret that opened in 1881 in Pigalle and quickly became a hangout for artists, poets, and curious night owls.

Picture bohemian crowds sipping absinthe, listening to satirical songs, and catching shadow plays (a kind of early multimedia show with light and puppets) that were way ahead of their time. Founded by Rodolphe Salis, it wasn’t just a bar but a cultural hub that helped shape the image of Montmartre as the artsy, slightly rebellious heart of Paris. Even if the original closed in the 1890s, its iconic black cat poster still purrs as one of the most famous symbols of Parisian nightlife. You can actually stay here now! There’s a cool, quirky hotel attached!

The Moulin Rouge

This was another iconic place I’d always wanted to visit. We booked our tickets ahead of time here, and went for the VIP tickets, because I’m bougie like that, I don’t like to wait in line, and I’m short. I always run the risk of getting seated behind the tallest person in the room.

There’s an early dinner show at 7:00 pm, and non-dinner shows at 9:00 and 11:00. We went for the 9:00 “Prestige” show. For about 138 Euro per person, you can get in. For 275 Euro per person, you get early access, preferred seating, a half bottle of champagne, macarons, and a swag bag. It was totally worth it to us!

Doors open at 8:00, and there was a line; but, since we were VIPs, we were escorted to the front of the line and to our seats on the front row of the third tier balcony. This was perfect, because we could take in the entire atmosphere, see the whole stage, and see over everyone’s heads! And how French is having champagne and macarons?!

Our tiny table had the signature red lamp, and the whole theatre was draped in circus tent type fabric. Black, red, and French all over! The show was visually stunning- brightly colored costumes, huge headdresses, and boobs! I don’t want to ruin the show for you, because it is still the same at the time of writing, Feerie. 

If the show is the same, you may want to exit when the ventriloquist has been performing for a couple of minutes. That was our least favorite part, and leaving was a mess. People elbowing everywhere, threatening to trample the little ones among us.

Fin

And so ended our time in Paris, and our Mediterranean Cruise. It was a fantastic trip, and experiencing it with family made it 10 times better! If only Cory had been with us… We brought a photo of him on a selfie stick so Flat Cory/Cory-on-a-Stick could be with us in spirit.

Contact me to help plan your cruise!! Until next time, Bon Voyage and Au Revoir!