Part 1 includes basic information about the Ecuadorian Amazon, when to go, and where to stay. In part 2, I’ll tell you more about our specific activities and sightings!

We just returned from a trip of a lifetime in Ecuador! We booked our trip through Natural Habitat and added a few extras on our own. Nat Hab was a bit disorganized on the front end before we left, but once we arrived in Quito, everything went off without a hitch! I will definitely use them again and highly recommend them. The guides were top notch and the accommodations excellent!

We booked a 7-night Galapagos cruise on the Tip Top IV, with an Eastern itinerary. We added on a pre-cruise extension at La Selva Eco Lodge in the Amazon Rainforest, near Yasuni National Park. One of the best trips I’ve ever taken!

This Epic Ecuadorian Exploration is going to require a series of posts, and I’ll start with my favorite part- the Amazon Rainforest! I’ll follow that with posts about the Galapagos Islands, Quito, and Banos. 

Ever since I was a child and watched “Ferngully” with my Dad, I’ve dreamt of visiting the Amazon. The mystery of the rainforest has always called out to me, and visiting has amplified the call. Something about the damp darkness of the understory, the impenetrable depth of the canopy, and the secrets held in both have occupied a place in my mind. 

Ecuadorian Amazon

When we say “The Amazon,” we can mean one of three things: the way grandpa refers to the popular shopping platform, the massive river that originates in the Peruvian Andes and flows east to the Atlantic, or the rainforest that surrounds the Amazon River and its tributaries in South America. 

The Nile River may be the longest by a hair (4132 miles versus the Amazon’s 4000 miles), but the Amazon River is the world’s largest river by volume (by far!). The Amazon River and Rainforest are crucial to world ecology. The river provides water to millions, and the forest is known as “the lungs of the world,” because the vast biomass of the trees and vegetation absorbs copious amounts of CO2 and produces oxygen. Deforestation by forest fires, clearcutting for beef and soy production, mining for metals, and drilling for oil threaten this critical place.

We need to act to save our tropical rainforests, particularly the Amazon. Climate change is accelerating and species are wiped out every year. You can make a difference by contributing financially, and by traveling with companies and staying at properties that are committed to preserving the environment and reforestation. Nat Hab is one of those companies and La Selva Eco Lodge is one of those properties.

Why visit the Ecuadorian Amazon?

The Amazon’s main tributaries in Ecuador are the Napo, the Pastaza, and the Putamayo. The Amazon rainforest in Ecuador comprises nearly half of the country and is a biodiversity hotspot. 

The Amazon rainforest in Ecuador is known as “The Oriente” because “oriente” is the Spanish word for “east,” and it comprises the eastern part of the country. 

Accessibility:

In Ecuador, it is relatively easy to get to the rainforest compared to other countries. The country itself is small, but packs a massive punch when it comes to the diversity and abundance of flora and fauna. It is undeveloped but has a few high end choices for accommodation, providing unique experiences of luxury in absolute wilderness. 

Conservation:

 The Ecuadorian people and government are dedicated to conservation and preservation of the ecosystem. Ecuador has established a network of national parks, reserves, and indigenous territories covering a significant portion of the Amazon. The government has initiated programs to provide financial incentives to landowners to offer alternatives to deforestation and has dedicated funds to conservation efforts. In addition, indigenous people’s rights are top of mind in this country, and these ethnic groups are stewards of the rainforest.   

Cultural Immersion:

Indigenous communities are relatively easy to visit in the Ecuadorian Amazon, and many partner with ecolodges and government organizations to provide opportunities for its people and financial assistance to encourage their stewardship. These communities maintain their traditional lifestyle and will often allow you a glimpse of their true day to day life.

Biodiversity:

The Ecuadorian Amazon boasts some truly impressive biodiversity superlatives:

• One of the Most Biodiverse Places on Earth: Ecuador, despite its small size, is considered one of the 17 megadiverse countries globally. The Amazonian portion significantly contributes to this distinction.   
• High Species Density:
  • Bird Species: Ecuador holds the record for the highest bird species diversity per unit area globally, with over 1,600 species recorded.
  • Amphibian Diversity: Ecuador is a global hotspot for amphibian diversity, with a significant number of endemic species found within the Amazon.   
  • Orchid Species: Ecuador boasts an extraordinary number of orchid species, with many endemic to the Amazon region.   
• Unique Ecosystems:
  • Variegated Habitats: The Ecuadorian Amazon encompasses a diverse range of ecosystems, from lowland rainforests to flooded forests and savannas, further enhancing biodiversity.

When to go and the climate

Ecuador is located right on the equator (thus the name of the country), so it does not experience four seasons and really doesn’t have a lot of variability in the weather. The rainy season is typically February-September and the dry season October-January (varies depending on your course). We were there during the dry season, but it still rained almost every day, and the rainforest was still muddy and moist. 

It. Was. Humid. So humid… I had a clingy long-sleeved t-shirt or two that I could not wear, because it stuck to my sweaty arms. I washed some undies and socks in the sink, and they never dried. When we got to Quito, I spread all our clothes around the hotel room to air out- they were slightly damp and musty. This is because the trees soak up water from the soil with their roots and release it through their leaves in a process called “transpiration.” The rainforest actually generates most of its own rain! I love science!

The average temperature year round is 82 F (28 C), and its always humid. My advice is- go when you can go and it will be amazing, rainy season or dry!

La Selva Lodge

Planning

As I mentioned, we booked our trip through Natural Habitat, and were offered two choices for an extension in an Amazon Lodge. Our choices were the Napo Wildlife Center and La Selva Eco Lodge. As you can see by the title, we chose La Selva, and it was a dream! I highly recommend staying here.

For around $2800 per person, all-inclusive, we spent 4 nights at La Selva. After arriving in Quito and spending a couple of nights at the Wyndham Quito Airport, our guide dropped us back off at the domestic terminal for our short 30 minute flight to Coca, the jumping-off point for our Amazon Adventure. 

Getting There

We had already been checked in and had only to drop off our bags. A representative for La Selva was at the airport to help us navigate (it is not a big airport, and not difficult to navigate, but it was a nice touch). 

Near the end of our flight, the river came into view through the clouds. The brown water snaked through dense green forest, and I was super excited to arrive!

The airport in Coca was tiny, and we had our bags in minutes. Our guide, Andres, greeted us with a smile and picked us up in a comfortable van. We drove about 10 minutes to La Selva’s office in town, where we were briefed on the lodge and had the chance to offload some of our gear that we would not need in the Amazon.

Soon, we walked across the street to board a motorized canoe for the 2.5 hour ride to the lodge. It was rainy and a little cold, but Andres provided ponchos. He also gave us yummy picnic lunches, and we settled in for the ride.

The water of the Napo River, one of the Amazon’s major tributaries, was brown and the river wide. Our captain had to navigate a serpiginous course, as certain areas were shallow and other areas deep. He read the river and went back and forth, sometimes traversing the whole thing!

The opaque water held so much mystery, and I couldn’t help thinking what monsters might lie beneath the surface- giant anacondas? I could only hope to view one of these creatures… Sand bars, floating islands of trees and grasses, and logs/whole trees punctuated the waterscape, and we zipped around them without issue.

After about 2 hours, we arrived at La Selva’s pier on the Napo River. We had a potty stop, then took a short walk down a paved path to our paddle canoe, where we met our local guide, Guillermo (he went by Gijo). This was one of my favorite parts of the trip- paddling (well, being paddled) down the creeks and lagoons that connected Lake Garzacocha, on which the lodge sat, to the Napo River. 

These narrow canals and creeks wound through dense vegetation, with palms and mangroves leaning over the water, and ferns and other ground plants lining the sides. The only sounds were the sounds of the jungle and the rhythmic swish of the paddles moving the water. The air was fresh and the scents of nature refreshing. 

Soon, the creeks opened up into the lake, its surface like glass reflecting the blue sky and fluffy white clouds. It felt like we were deep in the jungle, but in reality, we were just at the edge! It is hard to appreciate how vast the Amazon rainforest is, but it makes up an area roughly the same as the continental US! 

The lodge soon came into view, and it looked fabulous, blending seamlessly into the jungle with its thatched roofs and open-air construction. We pulled up to the pier and were greeted warmly by the manager, Miguel.

Amenities:

We were greeted with a traditional welcome drink and two lectures- one from Miguel about lodge procedures, and one from Andres about the Ecuadorian Amazon. It took awhile, but I found the information helpful and interesting. 

The lodge has a freshwater pool which is continuous with the lake, but has a barrier to keep the caimans out. It is a nice way to cool off in a natural setting. You can try your hand at fishing for piranha off of the pier, and yoga classes are offered daily- the morning class is held under a gazebo by the lake so you can see the sunrise and bask in the sounds of the forest. 

The main building has several quaint, quiet areas in which to lounge, with a bar and restaurant on the second level. Above this is an observation deck where you can pull out your binoculars (or use loaners from the lodge) and spy on howler monkeys and colorful jungle birds. 

All meals are included, and the elevated cuisine is top-notch, what I would call contemporary Ecuadorian. Snacks and coffee are available all day. Alcohol costs extra, and the selection is decent.

You’ll find lit sidewalks between guest villas and public spaces. Several gazebos with comfy seating are scattered throughout, where you can snatch a little alone-time to read your book or write in your journal (or scroll if you have to). At the end of the pathway en route to the jungle, you’ll find the open-air spa with massage tables and a whirlpool. We didn’t make use of the spa, but it looked amazing and I heard great things.

There is a sign just past the spa that prohibits guests from continuing to the jungle without a guide. They have actually had guests get lost, so heed the warning. A short walk beyond this is the observation tower, where a Kapok tree is home to a 124 foot staircase leading to a deck with expansive 360 degree views of the canopy.

Accommodations:

There are three types of guest accommodations: 12 superior rooms, 4 family suites, and 3 scenic rooms. We stayed in a superior room, which has a king-size bed, a seating area, patio with rainforest view, closet, and full bathroom with 2 sinks. There was no AC, but the screened doors and windows with ceiling fans kept us cool for naps and nights.

The 3 scenic rooms are in the main building, and as such seemed to have AC.They were a bit smaller than our room, but had larger balconies with lounge chairs and views of the lake.

The 4 family suites were very nice! Two bedrooms in an L-configuration faced a balcony with a hot tub and hammock. Inside, they were connected by a shared bathroom. This would be a great option for a family or small group of friends.

Activities:

All activities were included, with the exception of spa treatments. Every day was planned out for us and our same guides took us on all our excursions. This was great, as we got to know our guides and we really liked them! 

The day would start with a scheduled breakfast followed by an activity. We had downtime after lunch, during the heat of the day, then another activity at night. Dinner would end the day, followed by an early bedtime. The rhythms of the rainforest followed those of nature, getting up with the sun and going to bed soon after it set. 

Yoga was offered 4 times a day, beginning at 5 am with the last class at 9 pm. I loved doing the 5 am class- in pitch dark by the lake, sounds of frogs, bugs, monkeys, and fish as our soundtrack. 

Daily activities included day and night jungle walks, day and night canoe rides, visits to the parrot/macaw clay licks in Yasuni National Park, and visits to an indigenous village. During down time, fishing for piranhas, swimming in the natural pool, and kayaking were all included. With that said, I highly recommend incorporating naps into your schedule! I am not a napper, but the afternoon rain showers and thunderstorms made for the best naps, with the wind coming through the screens, billowing the gauzy curtains, ceiling fan on high and sounds of tropical rains punctuated by rumbles of thunder.

Cuisine:

Meals were tightly scheduled and signaled by what sounded like the honk of a didgeridoo. Breakfast was a small buffet, with eggs, sausage, bacon, fruit, yogurt, bread, pastries, and eggs made to order. The coffee was Ecuadorian-flavorful and strong!

Lunches and dinners were elaborate affairs- 3 courses, expertly and creatively prepared. There was often a small amuse bouche, then a more elaborate appetizer or soup, followed by a main course of fish, chicken, pork, or beef with sides, and a delicious dessert. There were always vegetarian options. Examples of the dishes we were served include: Potato locro, amberjack in green olive sauce, octopus and shrimp in eel sauce, grilled beef with blue cheese, swordfish, and coconut mousse in a chocolate shell. We even got to try arapaima, a massive fish found in the rivers and lakes.

Other lodges

Why look any further? La Selva was a perfect choice, and I’d highly recommend going there. Other lodges in the area include Mashpi, which looks fantastic and reviews well- it has very modern decor, a gondola, and is closer to Quito. Napo Wildlife Center also looks great, and may be a little less expensive. But, I cannot recommend places I haven’t stayed at, so you’re on your own!

Welp, that does it for the general information and recommendations! Stay tuned for part 2, where I’ll tell you all about our activities, excursions, and animal sightings! 

Can’t wait? Contact me and let’s get started planning your Amazon Adventure! Or go directly to Nathab and book with them!