We just returned from a month-long trip to India, and it was transformative. This trip is going to require a series of posts- we saw so much, had so many experiences, met so many people, and learned so much. I’ll include details about where we stayed, how we got there, and what we did, share a few stories, and give suggestions based on our experiences.

This post will address the basics– our itinerary, where we stayed, and helpful hints.

We were nervous but excited about traveling to India. We had wanted to go for quite some time, but felt like we needed more travel experience before we could tackle this country. We had heard that India was really difficult traveling and that you had to be a really strong traveler to survive it.

We heard that the smells assault you the moment you step off the plane and continue their assault for the duration of your stay. We had heard about leering, gropey men and aggressive touts. We’d heard horror stories about the street food and “Delhi Belly.” We’d heard about the harshness of the wealth disparities and extreme poverty. 

There is some truth to those warnings- yes, there was extreme poverty and pollution. There was a lot of litter. It was hot, and the roads were long and rough. Traffic was a frantic, chaotic free for all. But those things fell into the background as we settled into the rhythm of life here.

India is an extremely diverse, colorful country full of warm, friendly people who are proud of their culture and happy to share. No culture or country is perfect, and they all have challenges. But they all have their beauty and unique attributes, and those are what shone during our time in India, and that is what we will take with us forever.

We travel because we want to see all of the things that define a country. We want to see and know the realities of the places we visit and the daily lives of the people there. We don’t want a scrubbed-clean version of a place seen from the window of a suite in a five-star resort… although we do appreciate a good five star resort now and then!

As for the smells… the smells I remember are the scent of frangipani that wafted through the air at the most unexpected times. The scent of marigolds on a welcome garland. The scent of fresh baked naan coming out of a street stall. The aromas of a home-cooked meal at a new friend’s home. The first scents I smelled in India did not assault my scent receptors upon disembarkation, but gently caressed them as I entered the airport. Smells of flowers, expensive perfume, and freshly baked breads. 

Our Itinerary

The nidus for this trip was a Ganges River cruise on Uniworld. A group of friends invited us, and it looked too good to be true. This was a 13-day cruise tour itinerary that included 5 nights exploring “The Golden Triangle,” which comprises Delhi, Jaipur, and Agra, followed by a 7 night cruise on the Ganges aboard Uniworld’s Ganges Explorer II. India is so far away, we decided to make the most of it and add on stops before and after the cruise. For the before- and after- cruise portions were handled by Trinetra Tours, who I highly recommend.

Trinetra Tours was started over 30 years ago by a man named Tapas. He and his wife Krishna built this company from the ground up and now offer tour packages in several countries. From the moment I engaged Tapas and Trinetra, we were taken care of like family. He listened to my ideas and desires for the trip and designed two separate itineraries (one before the cruise tour and one after). Every detail was thoughtfully planned, and every handler, driver, and guide was excellent. I highly recommend using Trinetra to get a taste of the real India!

We ended up with a complex itinerary, but we saw so many wondrous things.

Here’s our itinerary:

Day 1: Arrive in Delhi; Abhaneri for Chand Baori

Accommodation: Pullman Aerocity

Day 2-5: Drive to Bandhavgarh National Park 

Accommodation: Oberoi Vindhyavilas

Day 6-8: Drive to Khajuraho for Kama Sutra Temples and Holi

Accommodation: Lalit Temple View Hotel

Day 9-11: Fly to Delhi

Accommodation: Oberoi New Delhi

Day 11-12: Drive to Agra

Accommodation: Oberoi Amarvilas

Day 13-15: Drive to Jaipur

Accommodation: Oberoi Rajvilas

Day 16-22: Fly to Kolkata for Uniworld Cruise onboard the Ganges Explorer II

Accommodation: Ganges Explorer II

Day 23-26: Fly to Mumbai

Accommodation: Taj Mahal Palace Hotel

Day 27-30: Fly to Goa

Accommodation: The Art Resort

Day 31-35: Overnight Train to Kochi, Kerala

Accommodation: Taj Malabar Cochin

Day 36: Fly to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Accommodation: EQ Hotel

Flights

We scored business class seats on Qatar Airways from DFW to Delhi with a layover in Doha. We had booked business class seats on Emirates from Mumbai back to DFW, but had to change them because of the war in Iran. Long story short, we ended up adding the last few days in Kerala and a couple of nights in Kuala Lumpur to take a less expensive flight back home. This was the first time in a long time we were not able to use points for international flights, and it was painful!

Want to get into the points game? Here’s an intro post on how to get started!

It can be difficult and time consuming to get from city to city in India. We took several domestic flights to save some travel time, and here are a few things we learned:

1. Your passport and boarding pass are checked before you can even enter the airport.
2. You are not limited on liquids in carry-on baggage
3. Checked bags have pretty strict weight limits. You can take extra, but you’ll pay for it.
4. You must remove all electronics, all charging cords, anything that may look pointy or suspicious on X-ray and place them in a separate bin to go through the scanner
5. Men and women have separate lines to go through security so women can be patted down in private.
6. ATMs are hard to come by, particularly in airports.
7. When disembarking the plane, it is a free for all. People don’t wait for the people in front of them to get into the aisle, they just rush the front of the plane. Its not personal, its just a cultural difference.

Trains

Few travel experiences capture the rhythm of India quite like its trains—an immense, living network that threads together coastlines, megacities, villages, and everything in between. Operated by Indian Railways, the system is less a mode of transport and more a window into daily life: chai vendors weaving through aisles, families sharing home-cooked meals, the soft clatter of tracks underscoring conversations in half a dozen languages. Sleeper berths turn strangers into temporary neighbors, and long journeys unfold in a series of shifting landscapes—palm-lined shores giving way to rice paddies, then dense towns and open countryside again. It’s equal parts chaos and choreography, and once you settle into its cadence, the train becomes not just a way to get somewhere, but a place where the journey itself quietly takes over.

Traveling by train in India is remarkably accessible once you understand the basics. Tickets are typically booked through IRCTC (the official site) or apps like ConfirmTkt, and it’s wise to reserve early—especially for overnight routes and popular corridors. Classes range from air-conditioned sleeper cabins (like 2AC or 3AC) to more open, budget-friendly options, each offering a different balance of comfort and immersion. Platforms can feel hectic, so arriving early helps, and checking your coach position in advance saves a last-minute scramble. Once onboard, bedding is usually provided in AC classes, while snacks, chai, and simple meals are sold throughout the journey—or can be pre-ordered to your seat. It’s not luxury travel in the conventional sense, but with a bit of planning and flexibility, it becomes an easy, safe, and surprisingly comfortable way to move through the country.

I’m talking about regional trains here, not local trains. Local trains—especially in big cities like Mumbai, Delhi, or Kolkata—are a different world entirely. These are high-frequency commuter trains with no seat reservations, often extremely crowded, and designed for short daily trips. Because of that intensity, they do have clearly marked “Ladies” compartments (and sometimes entire cars), reserved exclusively for women. There may also be senior citizen or differently-abled sections, but otherwise it’s largely a free-for-all boarding system. Take these at your own peril! We took one in Mumbai with a female guide, but did not navigate on our own.

We arrived at Madgaon Junction station in Goa well in advance of our scheduled departure time of 12:35 am, then our train was delayed by about 45 minutes. They made up the time and we arrived early at Ernakulum South station in Kochi, around 2:00 pm. We paid a few hundred thousand rupees for the pleasure of sitting in a lounge in recliners until our platform was announced. More comfy than a bench or the ground for sure!

Tips: As soon as your platform is announced or appears on the board, head there. It can be a longer walk than you may expect! You can find a porter in a red shirt to help you for a few rupees, and he will assist with bags, take you to the right platform, and show you where to stand.

If you don’t enlist the help of a porter, be sure to figure out where to stand to avoid pushing your way through earlier cars like we did:

• Check your coach number (like B2, A1, S3) on your ticket
• On the platform, look for overhead digital boards or small signs that show where each coach will stop
• Sometimes there are even painted markers on the ground indicating coach positions
• Trains often pause briefly before fully aligning, and people start boarding immediately—but if you wait 30–60 seconds, the train will settle into its final position, making it much easier to board right at your car instead of climbing in and walking through narrow aisles with luggage.
• Once you are situated, if you are in a private sleeper be sure to listen out for a knock. We missed our first snack because we didn’t hear the knock. They fed us quite well after that! We had 2 meals and an additional snack.
• Take toilet paper!

I thought it was a fun experience. Not as luxurious as the train to Sapa in Vietnam, and about the same as the overnight train in Egypt. The sleeper berths reminded me of what a jail cell might feel like, minus the toilet. There were lunch trays under the bed, which we didn’t notice until we were leaving. The rocking motion of the train soothed us to sleep, and staring at the scenery was a favorite waking activity.

Cruise

I’ll tell you all about the cruise in a separate post. I’ll post a link here once it is complete.

Accommodations

Pullman Aerocity- New Delhi

The Pullman New Delhi Aerocity was a surprising jewel. I never expected an airport hotel to be so nice. This was a five-star hotel with white-glove service, top notch accommodations, and a lavish breakfast buffet. Welcome drinks and happy hour were accompanied by a live sitar player. For about $120 USD a night, this hotel is a great deal.

Oberoi Vindhyavilas- Bandhavgarh

This place was special. The Oberoi Vindhyavilas is a new property steps from Bandhavgarh National Park, which boasts one of the highest tiger densities in the world. Spanning 1,536 square kilometres, the park offers a spectacular natural landscape teeming with wildlife and rich biodiversity. 

Luxury tents go for around $500 a night, which seems pricey until you look at the inclusions- this includes three meals a day plus pre-game drive morning snacks, game drives, lectures, a fireside dinner with live music, and the best service you will ever experience. We were warmly greeted upon arrival around 10:00 pm by what seemed like the entire staff, including a general manager. *pro-tip: let them know if you are arriving late and they will arrange for a late dinner. We did not, and we missed out on a feast in favor of roadside butter chicken, which was just OK…

There are only 17 tents and villas, and they were fully booked when we were there; however, we often felt like the only guests. Not only did we rarely see other guests, but the staff remembered our names and preferences. They offered curated experiences such as a lecture series with a senior naturalist and a fireside dinner with local music.

The infinity pool and gym overlook a beautiful lake with fountains, and there are opportunities for private, romantic dinners at various places on the property.

The hotel arranges daily game drives, and ours were in these really cool new vehicles called Scorpios. Each day, we had a morning game drive and an afternoon game drive. The mornings started early, because the animals are most active at dawn and dusk. We were in our vehicles by 5:30 am. We were greeted with blankets warmed by hot water bottles. Our naturalist guide actually had us stand up and sit on the blankets, then he swaddled us like little babies. It was. nice touch…

I’ll tell you all about the game drives later, but I’ll tell you they were fantastic! The resort employs naturalists as well as local guides and trackers to give the absolute best experience and provide the best chance of seeing tigers.

I can’t imagine going back to this area again, but I almost shed a tear to think I won’t see this property and the wonderful staff who make it special ever again…I’ve stayed at a lot of nice places all around the world, and this is the absolute best one at which I’ve ever stayed.

Lalit Temple View Khajuraho

We were spoiled at the Oberoi Vindhyavilas. When we arrived at the Lalit Temple View Hotel in Khajuraho, we were hurled back to earth. At first, we were impressed by the lovely grounds and prime location. But, the lobby was cavernous and impersonal and the service, for the most part, was lacking. There was a lot to like about this hotel, but overall it was not impressive. It was rated as the best hotel in Khajuraho when we visited, but an Oberoi has opened close to there since and, if I ever visited again, I would stay there.

Let’s get the negative over with. The bathroom has no counter space and toiletries that looked like they came from the dollar store. The furnishings were tired and the linens needed to be replaced. From the floors to the walls, the interiors feel worn and overdue for a renovation. The breakfast buffet was good (not great) and had numerous Indian and western choice, but they left the chafing dishes open, so the food quickly became cold. Service at breakfast left much to be desired- staff, including the floor manager, seemed mildly annoyed that we were there. It was just not a 5-star hotel.

The positives- the grounds were lovely, and the groundskeeper was a point of light. There were rainbow flags everywhere, and the hotel had a policy of inclusivity– many of the staff members were obviously differently-abled or LGBTQIA+, and I appreciate and respect that. The namesake view was impressive, particularly at sunrise and sunset- the temples were clearly within view. The location was perfect, minutes from the village and the temples.

In short, from the choices we had, this was probably the best place to stay at the time. But, we were not impressed! Perhaps this was partially due to the contrast with our previous lodging, but our feelings remain. Rooms go for $110-$200.

Oberoi New Delhi

The Oberoi New Delhi is an extremely nice hotel. It is opulent, luxe, and beautifully decorated. As we entered the lobby, I felt an immediate sense of peace descend upon me after coming in from the hot chaos of the streets of New Delhi. The cool AC, floral scents of marigolds and irises, and soft sounds of a flutist immediately lowered my heart rate. The breakfast-inclusive rate is under $300 per night, which is very reasonable for what you get here.

Of the four Oberoi properties at which we stayed, this was my least favorite, but it was still lovely. It was the largest of the properties and just didn’t feel quite as exclusive. With that said, the service was still impeccable, the room spectacular, and the food delicious. 

Oberoi Amarvilas- Agra

The Oberoi Amarvilas in Agra was a palace in its own accord. Every single room has a view of the Taj Mahal! Not only that, but the hotel is within easy walking distance of the Taj Mahal; however, they offer a free golf-cart shuttle if you are unable to walk or are just lazy… This one has a breakfast-inclusive rate of around $350-400 per night. 

Rooms feature Mughal-inspired designs and come with a personal butler who will even unpack your things if you would like. The breakfast spread was impressive, but the best part of this property was the pool. 

Oberoi Rajvilas- Jaipur

The Oberoi Rajvilas in Jaipur, Rajasthan almost rivaled Vinhyavilas, but it had 70-something rooms, so it was not quite as personal. Private villas go for $350-$500 or more, inclusive of breakfast.

It does, however, receive the award for best reception! Most places performed a welcome ceremony, called an Atithi Devo Bhava (guest is God), during which a beautiful woman circles your face with a lit candle and flowers on a tray, booping a little dot of vermillion powder on your forehead and donning you with a marigold (or seashell) garland. They’d present a welcome drink and a cold towel to set the tone for your stay.

The Oberoi Rajvilas took it a step further. Someone stood on the balcony above the entryway and showered us with rose petals! I felt like a princess for sure!

The rooms were individual villas, decorated with handwoven rugs and block-printed textiles. My favorite part was the arched windows with built-in seating. Ours had high ceilings and soft, warm lighting, and a bathroom with marble surfaces and a sunken Roman tub, which I actually made use of!!

The entire property is designed to look like a fortified royal estate, with courtyards, pavilions, reflection pools, and even a temple at its center. It’s not an old palace—it’s a purpose-built illusion of one, executed at an extremely high level.

One of the more memorable aspects of this resort was the flock of peacocks roaming the grounds! These lovely birds with jewel-toned plumage were everywhere, and we heard their calls constantly- they sounded like meowing cats!

The resort is about 30 minutes away from the city center and feels a bit isolated. If you really want to get into the town, this is not the place for you. But if you are looking to escape the chaos for a little while, this is a solid option.

Taj Mahal Palace- Mumbai

The Taj Mahal Palace in Mumbai was the place to be- if it was good enough for Barack Obama, it’s good enough for us! It was also the site of a terrorist attack back in 2008, which was a bit creepy. The location was incredible- right by the Arabian Sea and the Gateway of India. We could see both from our breakfast table! Just behind the hotel was one of the best street food stalls we’ve visited- Bademiya Seekh kabab! We had a few different wraps, and the mutton seekh kebab wrap and the butter chicken wrap were our favorites!

The hotel itself was opulent and over-the-top. It was not an actual palace, but has hosted royalty over the years. The lobby feels like stepping into a grand colonial-era salon, with soaring ceilings, intricate Indo-Saracenic arches, and a rich blend of marble floors, Persian rugs, and crystal chandeliers casting a warm glow. Polished wood, curated antiques, and fresh floral arrangements add to the sense of timeless opulence, while the bustle of guests and staff gives it an elegant yet lively energy.

The service upon check-in was pretty impressive. A beautiful girl in a traditional sari checked us in and took a photo of us, which she later placed in a frame in our room. It was not a great photo, but it was a nice touch. Staff we had never met knew our names. We were not allowed to open doors or press elevator buttons- we had people for that.

The room itself was lovely, with a marble bathroom with glass shelves, and nice furnishings. We were given a smoking room, which I didn’t notice at first but did after a while- there was a stale, old smell about the place. Rooms go for around $150-$350 depending on dates, and you are able to book breakfast-inclusive rates.

The hotel offers a few complimentary experiences. One was an electric carriage ride- it was like a horse drawn carriage without a horse. Instead, it had an electric motor. It was a romantic way to see the city at night, but not a particularly informative tour.

But overall, I have no complaints. It was no Oberoi, but it would do!

Art Resort Goa

After being spoiled at Oberoi and Taj properties, I was a little apprehensive about The Art Resort Goa. It was a top-rated choice in Goa that I chose for that reason, and because they offered villas directly on the beach for $50 a night! We booked one of their honeymoon villas, so we had unobstructed views of the beach and ocean.

This was such a cool place. Although it has only been around since the early 2000’s, it had a bohemian, hippy vibe that conjured feelings of what it must have been like on the hippie trail back in the day! A few leftover hippie relics wandered the area, with their flowing clothes and grey dreadlocks. It was the right way to “do” Goa! We chose Goa because of its history as a haven for seekers, and for a few days of beachside relaxation after an action-packed exploration of India.

This resort supports local artists in every medium, including but not limited to oils, acrylics, and watercolors, sculptors, and musicians. Their nightly live music always drew a crowd, and every wall was decorated with impressive works. Not only that, every surface, crevice, cranny, pole, ceiling, floor- everything was colorful! The rooms were furnished with the necessities, and draped in colorful fabrics and tapestries. It was a hippie haven!

Art Resort is located directly on Palolem Beach. There are numerous other resorts on the beach within walking distance, but ours was consistently the most lively and popular. On the side opposite the beach, there’s a small village within walking distance with lots of cheap kitschy shops, a few boutiques, and several restaurants.

We had heard the ocean was dirty and polluted, but we didn’t find that to be true. Lots of people swam, and we joined them. The temperature was like bathwater, and the gentle swells lulled us into relaxation. Pure bliss.

Taj Malabar- Cochin

Taj Malabar Resort and Spa Cochin is in the town of Cochin/Kochi, but it is NOT in Fort Kochi. That was really the only downside- it was a 15-20 minute taxi or tuk tuk ride to town. If you want to be in the middle of the action, choose a hotel in Fort Kochi. The location on Willingdon Island provides unobstructed views of Ernakulum Harbor. We had a corner sunset sea view room and actually saw dolphins from our room. Their al fresco dining area is on a peninsula named “Dolphin Point” because of the frequency of sightings.

We were greeted with a welcome dance, which was nice but a tiny bit awkward, as we were the only people checking in and had 4 ladies dancing for us… to be honest, for a while it felt like we were the only guests in the hotel. It all felt very exclusive. Overall, service was attentive but not over the top like Vindhyavilas. Jackson, one of the managers, did everything he could to make our stay more comfortable. He even offered to go home and get his scooter so he could drive us to town when he couldn’t find us a tuk tuk. We ended up easily finding our own with the Grab app.

This hotel is a steal, with rooms going for under $200. If you book through Amex and pay ahead, you get resort credit, early check-in/late check-out, room upgrades when available, and breakfast. Not to mention you get your $300 hotel credit.

EQ Hotel Kuala Lumpur

The EQ Hotel is the place to be in KL! You can stay at the #1 hotel in Malaysia for under $200! The uber modern tower is centrally located, within walking distance of City Center Park (great views of the towers), tons of restaurants and shopping, night markets, and public transportation. Some rooms have stunning views of the Petronus Towers, particularly mesmerizing at night.

We booked this hotel through Amex Platinum. It is part of “The Hotel Collection,” so if you book 2 nights and prepay, you get:

Core THC benefits

• Room upgrade at check-in (if available)
• $150 property credit
• 12pm early check-in (if available)
• Late checkout (if available)

EQ adds some unusually generous perks for a THC property:

• Daily breakfast for two
• Complimentary minibar
• Free self-parking

👉 That’s notably better than many THC hotels, which don’t always include breakfast.

AND you can use your $300 hotel credit!

The service here was amazing, and the room was huge, had a wonderful view a cool bathroom, and a comfy bed. The breakfast buffet was expansive, with western and Asian selections.

 

Until Next Time…

Come back soon for the next post in this series! Next time we visit a site from The Amazing Race, Season 27… a deep descent into the earth… an inverted pyramid then the festival of color in the land of Kama Sutra.