This may have been the most amazing day of our trip to Egypt! We felt like serious explorers- some real Indiana Jones vibes! We crawled into ancient pyramids, descending into the dark unknown, unfettered by foul smells and ominous cool breezes. This was an optional half-day trip on our Egypt tour itinerary, and I’m so glad we opted in!

Memphis was the capital of Egypt long before Cairo existed, and you can visit its ruins on a short day trip from Cairo. It is only about 15 miles from Cairo, and the drive takes 30-45 minutes depending on traffic. Saqqara and Dahshur are necropoles near Memphis, where some of the first pyramids in existence were built. 

Read about our time in Cairo here, our visit to Luxor here, and Aswan and Abu Simbel here.

Saqqara

We started at Saqqara in the museum of Imhotep. Imhotep was the architect of the pyramids in this area, and the first to build with stone on a grand scale. We saw an entire simulated tomb housing a real mummy, which some think may actually be Imhotep himself. Many artifacts from the Saqqara archaeological site are on display here, including statues, coffins, paintings, utensils such as surgical instruments, and architectural elements. This is small museum, but it’s very nice and prepares you for what you are about to see at the necropoles. Grab a drink at the cafe, because it pretty much stays hot in this area during the day.

At the necropolis of Saqqara, there is a large, sunken area with mastabas. Mastabas are the rectangular surface components above burial chambers. These were thought to belong to high ranking officials from the first dynasty, around 3000 BC. So… really really old.

But no one cares about those rectangular tombs aside from Egyptologists and Egyptophiles, do they? We wanna know about the pyramids. 

Turns out the oldest pyramid in Egypt is here at Saqqara. It is a “Step Pyramid” which actually consists of several mastabas of decreasing size stacked atop one another to form a pyramid, symbolizing the pharaoh’s ascent to heaven. This is The Step Pyramid of Djoser, and is the burial tomb of that pharaoh, built by Imhotep. This groundbreaking monument represents the first true pyramid, and it dates back to approximately 2500 BC.

Located in a vast expanse of desert sand, the hike to the step pyramid was pretty brutal in the dry heat of the midday sun. It was worth it to examine the pyramid up close, and we were the only people around, which was a rare treat.

Dahshur

Dahshur is about 10 miles from Saqqara. There are three main pyramids here- the Bent Pyramid, the Red Pyramid, and the Black Pyramid. They were built by the Pharaoh Sneferu, father to Khufu who built the Pyramids of Giza. Sneferu built the first smooth-sided (non-step) pyramids, which were more technically advanced and aesthetically pleasing. His first effort is known as the Bent Pyramid, because the base is square/rectangular, and the top slanted, possibly due to a miscalculation when planning the build. The slant begins at a rather sharp line of demarcation, which is considered the bend. It is thought to have been a kind of experiment, as Sneferu developed his engineering techniques. 

The Bent Pyramid

We went inside the Bent Pyramid, which was steep, tight, and scary. We first had to climb stone and wooden stairs, then descend backwards down a wooden ramp in a narrow, short, steep tunnel. There were wooden hand rails to hold going down, and we were forced to maintain a crouched position the whole way. If you accidentally stood up, you’d bump your head on the stone ceiling. Then, back up some wooden stairs to the first chamber. 

We thought we had reached the end, until we went through a small passageway and were greeted by a scaffolding of wooden stairs leading up, up, up… then to a small, claustrophobia-inducing tunnel to the burial chamber.

The burial chamber, a sanctuary of silence, revealed its secrets to us. We explored its depths, our hearts pounding in our chests as we imagined the pharaoh who once slept here. The pyramid’s ancient energy seemed to seep into our bones, leaving us both exhilarated and humbled by the experience.

The Red Pyramid

The Red Pyramid was the first smooth-sided pyramid, and Snefuru had this one built for himself. This one was not as physically difficult as the Bent Pyramid, but it had its own challenges.

We climbed up wooden staircases to the entrance of the pyramid, only to have to descend again. We backed into the entrance and had to scoot down in a crouched position, as the 206 foot tunnel to the first chamber was only 3 feet high! Luckily, we didn’t have to scale a stone wall or navigate stone steps. Instead, a wooden ramp with steps was constructed to facilitate the descent. I’m sure it helped, but it was not easy. 

There are three major chambers inside the pyramid, and wooden scaffolding has been constructed inside to allow visitors to traverse and view the chambers. It is thought that the treasures, as well as the remains, were stolen by robbers. 

At some point, we were bombarded by the smell of ammonia. This smell was so strong, we could not linger. It is not clear why the smell is there. It could have been released during decomposition or during the process of making fertilizer. One theory (myth?) is that the robbers were trapped in the pyramid and left to die and rot, then removed at a later date.

This was a really cool experience, but I don’t recommend it unless you are in reasonably good physical condition, are not claustrophobic, and cal handle foul smells. 

The Satellite Pyramid

Our Egyptologist guide, Aboudy, saw someone he knew and ran over to talk to him. He excitedly motioned us over, and indicated that his friend was going to allow us to see a small satellite pyramid where the public was rarely allowed to go. It was similar in many ways to the Red Pyramid on a much smaller scale, minus the horrible smell. Some egyptologists think this may have been a Ka Pyramid, or a special small pyramid built to house the soul of the pharaoh. 

So much mystery and intrigue.

Memphis

Memphis was the ancient capital of Egypt for over 2,000 years, located on the west bank of the Nile River. It played a crucial role in the development of Egyptian civilization, serving as a center for political, economic, and religious activities. Read more about Memphis here. We did not visit the modern portions of the city, instead focusing on the museum and its artifacts.

The centerpiece of this quaint open-air museum is yet another colossus of Rameses the Humble… oops I mean Rameses the Great, of course! There are so many statues of this guy all over Egypt, you’d think he was the only pharaoh who ever reigned! This particular statue lies supine and measures 10 meters in length. He lies in the center of the interior space, with walkways around the second level so you can admire him from all angles.

There’s also an alabaster sphinx outside, representing Pharaoh Amenemhat II. Several other statues and architectural remnants grace the outdoor portion, and you can get up close and personal to take a look. 

It can get extremely hot in Egypt, and it can be difficult to find toilets. Travel with your own toilet paper and a little change, as sometimes the restrooms have tip jars or fees. The toilets at the open air hotel charged a small fee and, when you pay the attendant, you are given a square of toilet paper. Also, there is a little fruit stand across the street where you can pick up some fresh pomegranate juice and dates!

In summary, I highly recommend visiting Memphis, Saqqara, and Dahshur on your trip to Egypt. This was a completely different experience than visiting the Pyramids of Giza, which was still amazing… but, while the Pyramids of Giza are pretty much in the city and mobbed with tourists, here you feel like a real explorer. These pyramids are out in the desert and less crowded. Going inside feels like a real exploration instead of a set tourist experience. Don’t miss these amazing sites!