Peru: The Inca Trail and the City in the Clouds

Read about our 4-day Classic Inca Trail trek to Machu Picchu! Peru is a breathtakingly beautiful country packed with history, culture, and AMAZING cuisine! See pix from our trip here: https://jenniferspath.org/travel-photo-gallery/

Keep in mind that my descriptions of culture, religion, etc are based on what we learned from our guides and people we encountered. I verified the info where possible, but some of the stories/legends/myths are verbal history and couldn’t be verified. If I offend or get something wrong, please let me know in the comments and forgive me! We try to understand other cultures, but this is always done through the lens of our own.

We had always wanted to see Machu Picchu, and what better way to get there than to walk in the footsteps of the Inca? There are essentially three choices for the Inca Trail: The Classic Inca Trail, a modified version of the Inca Trail, and the Salkantay route. The classic route is 4 days/3 nights, and you can find routes that add one day, and some that are only 2 days. If you don’t feel ready for a moderate to difficult hike and/or have limited time, the 2-day option could be a great fit. On the other hand, if you have lots of time and are very fit, the 7-day Salkantay trek may be for you! The Classic Trail and its longer versions, as well as the Salkantay route, require a couple of days of acclimatization at altitude, but the 2-day trek does not.

We are pretty fit, but we had never done a long trek like this, and we didn’t have unlimited time. Therefore, we chose the 4-day Classic Inca Trail. This version is 26 miles long, with tons of elevation loss and gain. Just before this trip, in early 2018, I was diagnosed with Crohn’s disease. Luckily, my awesome gastroenterologist started me on oral steroids and minimized my symptoms, so we were able to go! So, I was not at my best, but the steroids gave me superpowers.

For this trip, I used a concierge tour outfitter which offers bespoke, custom-made tours all over the world. At the time, this outfitter was called “Africa Exclusive,” and we had used them for trips to Vietnam and Botswana. They are now known as Journeysmiths, and I cannot recommend them enough! This is not the most economical way to travel, but if you want someone to craft a unique trip for you and hold your hand every step of the way, they are perfect! Each of the three trips I have taken with them have gone off without a hitch. They catered to my every need, had guides pick us up at every stop, and chose top notch accommodations. We signed up for a small group tour, but we were the only members of our small group. It would have been better if there were others in our group to share this experience with, but we still had an amazing time.

Only 500 permits to hike the Inca Trail are issued each day, so planning ahead is essential. The trail is open every month but February. The dry season is the most popular time, from May through September. We often try to travel in shoulder season, April-May and September-October to avoid the bulk of the crowds. We hiked in April, and it rained most days we were on the trail. This was less than desirable.

In general, the larger your group, the cheaper your price. For a small group, around $700 per person is a safe estimate. This is just for the hike, camping, and food along the trail. I cannot speak to other outfitters, but ours provided gourmet meals 2-3 times a day while on the trail. The level of service was insane! We had a team of 10 guys, including our guide, cooks, and porters. The porters carried most of our gear, leaving us only with small day packs. These guys would basically run ahead in their flip flops with 50 pound packs on their backs. They would reach our lunch or camp site and set up our tent, their tents, and a dining tent. By the time we arrived, a full spread would be waiting for us.

You may be able to get a cheaper price if you carry your own gear and opt for a lower level of service. Keep in mind, though, this hike is tough. We were glad to be free of all that weight.

Our package included 8 nights accommodations: a night in Lima, two nights in Cusco to acclimatize, three nights on the trail, one night at the Belmond Sanctuary Lodge, and one night in Cusco at the end. It also included tours of the Sacred Valley of the Incas and a tour of Cusco.

Lima

Lima is a beautiful city with world-class cuisine. It is perched on a series of hills towering over the Pacific Ocean, and has a moderate climate with two main seasons- summer and winter. We spent our one night in Lima at the Casa Andina Premium Miraflores. We took a nap, then set out to explore the city.

Mirabus

We tend to do a mixture of touristy things and off-the-beaten path experiences. Sometimes, we will do a food tour to orient us to a city. This time, we opted for a Big Red Bus (Mirabus in Lima) tour. YES, these are super touristy, and the open top can be very hot. I will share a horrible experience about a Big Red Bus tour in Malta when I write my post on our Mediterranean Cruise. This was not a horrible experience! We actually enjoyed it very much, and may have napped in between attractions.

Convent/Monastery of San Francisco

We got oriented to the city and hopped off the bus at the Convent of San Francisco. The convent is part of Lima’s historic city center, which is an UNESCO World Heritage Site. 300 monks called this compound home in the 16th century, and today it is a museum. Its anti-seismic architectural features have kept much of the structure well-preserved, and the complex contains artistic works, a library of 25,000+ books, and intricate stone and woodwork. We toured the cathedral, the cloister, and the courtyards- all impressive and worth reading about and visiting. In the cathedral, a peek through a grate in the floor reveals piles and arrangements of bones, hinting at what lies beneath the church.

The Catacombs

Now, I am a pathologist. As such, I tend to be a little… different. The stereotypes of pathologists are absolutely NOT true! We are not the patient-hating, socially inept, creepy dudes who hate living people and prefer dead ones. No, we tend to be a little nerdy and interested in science, but we are just normal people. TV shows focus on the specialty of Forensic Pathology, but only a small percentage of us go into forensics. And, the forensic pathologists I know are exceptionally cool people. Instead, most of us do microscopy, frozen sections, laboratory work, and procedures (on actual LIVE patients). We actually play a critical role in patient care, but most patients don’t even know we exist! With all that said, most stereotypes have a grain of truth, and I must admit a slight fascination with the macabre. But I think most people would find this interesting!

Underneath the baroque compound of the convent/monastery are the Catacombs of Lima, the largest and best-preserved in South America. They are reported to contain the remains of around 70,000 people! Catacombs are basically underground cemeteries. They typically consist of hallways that undulate up and down, and side to side, taking you past crypts and mortuaries. If large enough, a catacomb might be considered an underground necropolis! Most of the catacombs we can still visit today are technically ossuaries, as they are massive collections of bones, often arranged artistically.

In these catacombs, monks and wealthy citizens received places of honor and deeper, individual graves. The remains of poor people were relegated to shallow mass graves. Lime would be placed on the bodies, both to mask the smell and to accelerate decomposition. The bones were then removed from the decaying flesh and placed in the ossuary.

We made our way down cobbly, narrow stairs to the tunnels of the catacombs. It was warm, dank, and somber, yet somehow peaceful. Despite several tourists being present, there was a still silence about the place. The first section contained huge bins filled with bones, separated anatomically. There were bins of femurs, bins of pelvises, bins of skulls, you get the picture.

Another section contained artfully arranged bones. One in particular had a skull in the center with femurs and other bones radiating out from it in a sort of mandala pattern. The creations were quite beautiful. It is thought that bones in ossuaries are often arranged certain ways symbolically or as a tribute to the deceased. There are ossuaries all over the world, and if you really want to nerd out about them, start here: https://www.jonsbones.com/blog/ossuaries-where-bones-are-laid-to-rest

One night in Lima

We found an amazing restaurant in Lima called Saqra. What an introduction to Peruvian food!! The ambiance and service were second to none! The restaurant was a few feet below ground level, and our table was in an intimate alcove where we had the sidewalk at eye level. The restaurant was colorful and the decor eclectic. Our server, Gabriel, took great care of us. we had pulpo (octopus, not whole like in Portugal. Read about octopus anatomy in my Portugal post), ceviche, pork adobo, and picarones with ice cream for dessert. Picarones are basically Peruvian donuts. We enjoyed the national drink, Pisco Sour, which is made of Pisco (a sort of white brandy made from muscat grapes), egg whites, lemon juice, simple syrup, and bitters. Gotta have that protein!

Then we went wandering, as we tend to do. We found a bar/club advertising 80s music, which is kinda my thing, so we went in. We were not in for an evening of Poison and Motley Crue covers, oh no! Instead, there was a Ricardo Arjona impersonator! Ricardo Arjona is one of the most successful Latin American pop stars of all time! He has been a fixture in the music scene since the 1980s and has sold over 80 million records! We stayed for a couple of songs and watched these women go crazy, as if he were the real thing!

Cusco

Hotel

After a brief flight from Lima to Cusco, we checked into our hotel, the Aranwa Cusco Boutique Hotel. We stayed here for two nights before our 4-day Classic Inca Trail to Machu Picchu trek, and one night after. As I mentioned, it is necessary to acclimatize to the altitude before hiking the Inca Trail. Cusco is at 11,152 feet elevation, while Lima is only about 528. Many people experience altitude sickness when arriving in Cusco, so it is important to take it easy and relax for your first day here. Interestingly, most hotels are equipped with oxygen if you need it, and some even pump in supplemental O2 to ease your transition. Moreover, Machu Picchu is only 7972 feet and most of the trail is lower than Cusco. Two days of your trek are spent above 11,000 feet, with the highest point reaching almost 14,000 feet at Dead Woman’s Pass. Read more about the trail here: https://www.adventure-life.com/peru/articles/hiking-the-inca-trail

We were greeted with a nice hot cup of coca tea and cookies, which we enjoyed on the ornate couches of the lobby, in front of a huge fireplace. Coca tea is made from the leaves of the plant from which coca alkaloids are extracted. When modified, these alkaloids form the base for cocaine. The tea is a mild stimulant with effects similar to caffeine, and the Peruvian people believe that it helps prevent and/or minimize symptoms of altitude sickness. If you really want to nerd out, check out this article. In short: no, it is not cocaine.

The hotel was also a museum which houses various works of art, most depicting monks and saints. Our room was spacious and elegantly decorated. The bathroom was larger than the bedroom! The bedroom had a nice, soft king-sized bed. The bathroom contained a huge, round, step-in jacuzzi tub as its centerpiece, a spacious spa shower, and dual sinks. This is a great place to call home while in Cusco. We were able to leave items here that we would not need on our hike. Daily breakfast is provided, but I did not record it in my journal so it was not terribly memorable.

Dining

While in Cusco, we enjoyed several excellent meals. Sometimes the best places are the local holes-in-the-wall which no one recommends and are not on TripAdvisor. We lucked onto such a place on a backstreet called Q’era. The owners did not speak English, and there were about four tables in this tiny cafe. We had the waiter bring us his favorite dishes, and we ended up with ceviche and chicharron de pescado, a whole fried fish. Simple and delicious! All this, plus coffee and an Inca Kola for less than $10. Inca Kola is a strange neon yellow-colored liquid flavored with lemon verbena. It is sweet and strangely pleasant. Dinners for our first two nights consisted of alpaca skewers one night and Peruvian fried rice, or arroz chaufa the other.

Our last night, we had dinner with two couples we met on the train back from Aguas Calientes at a contemporary Peruvian restaurant called Morena. I can highly recommend this restaurant, although I can’t remember what we had! The ambiance was great, and the food creative and delicious.

Talk about creative food… Our last day in South America, we finally tried CUY. Cuy, or guinea pig, is a delicacy in Peru. They are specifically bred for food and are not kept as pets. They are actually low in fat and high in protein and nutritional content. These 1-2 pound rodents have only been kept as pets in the US and Europe for about 200 years, while they have been used as a food source in this area since Incan times.

Don’t worry, they eat llamas and alpacas too. Hey, you eat what you have access to! I don’t see the problem with eating animals we traditionally see as pets or pests, and I would never (intentionally) turn my nose up at the food of another culture. Some cultures eat dogs and cats, some eat bugs (including spiders), some eat rats. I would try them all… I prefer not to eat blood, bile, or poo-based foods, but I am not one to judge those who do.

Back to Cuy… We found an out of the way place called KuziKuy in which to enjoy this treat. Unfortunately, at this time (September 2022), KusiKuy has permanently closed. Another victim of COVID?? 🙁 So sad for Luciano and family. We were the only patrons for lunch, so we received extra-special attention. We had a quinoa appetizer and, let me tell you, the Peruvians know how to prepare quinoa! Quinoa is trendy and ubiquitous now, but this so-called “ancient grain” is truly ancient but is not actually a grain. It is a seed that originated here in the Andes thousands of years ago and was a staple in the Incas’ diet. I could’ve eaten the quinoa all by itself.

Luciano then brought our Cuy, prepared as you see in the photo- perched atop a yellow potato, with a tomato hat and a Peruvian corn purse (Cuzco Corn). Its teeth were still intact and a carrot was stuffed in its mouth. Luckily, we did not have to dissect our lunch. Luciano took it back and carved it into edible pieces for us. It was good, but there was not a ton of meat. And yes, it tasted like chicken. Mostly dark meat.

 

Sites

Cusco was the capital city of the Inca Empire and remains the “historic capital” of Peru. It is estimated that the original version of the city was constructed in 1100 CE by the Killke people. The Inca took it over in the 14th century, expanded the city, and built temples, palaces, and other buildings. This continued until 1533, when Cusco was invaded and conquered by Spanish explorers. Basically, while some of the Incan buildings were maintained, the Spanish built on top of the Incan structures. You can still see the juxtaposition of cultures and building styles as you explore the city.

Temple of the Sun

The Temple of the Sun, or Qorikancha, was very sacred to the Incan people, more so even than Machu Picchu. The Spanish built the Dominican Priory and Church of Santo Domingo on top of this sacred site, using some of its walls in the structure of the church. Funnily enough, the church and priory were seriously damaged during an earthquake in 1950, but the Incan construction remained intact. The Inca used large stones of similar size and shape to build the walls. The stones were so perfectly fitted, that no mortar was used. Any stone with a chip or imperfection was discarded. Knaves were strategically added to aid in force dispersion, and there was a slight lean to the walls to help withstand earthquakes. When the Spanish conquered Cusco, the walls of the temple were coated in pure gold!

Cusco Cathedral

Cusco Cathedral was built on top of an Inca Palace. Looming over the main square, it has a beautiful facade and contains many works of art from the Cusco school. Now, I am no art historian, but my father has always fostered in me an appreciation of the arts. His works are, of course, my favorites. But aside from that, I really enjoy Renaissance art which depicts people. I could not tell you the names of the works in this cathedral, and I found the statues gaudy and cartoonish.

But I loved the paintings! I felt the artists expressed their senses of humor, throwing in elements of Peruvian culture that one might overlook. You might see the spiral of Pachamama (Mother Earth, more on this later), alpaca heads on camels, and a guinea pig as the main course in a depiction of the last supper. One explanation for this was that the artists, and citizens, wanted to honor their Incan or Quechuan heritage even as they attended the masses of the conquering Catholics.

Pix with “Baby Alpacas”

Around town, it was common to see women in traditional Peruvian dress with small white animals (also dressed in traditional garb), offering pictures with baby alpacas. Turns out, most of these are baby goats. But they are still really darn cute.

Saqsaywaman

Let me just say that these words are crazy. There are many different spellings for each of them, they tend to be long, and they have a certain musicality to them. Saqsaywaman is a fortress built on a hill overlooking Cusco, and is another feat of Incan construction. Again, the stones are perfectly made and placed together so precisely that no mortar is used. These stones weigh up to 80 tons, maybe even more. They were shaped using other stones and bronze instruments, and moved to this site with the help of ancient aliens. Simply amazing. This is a great example of how the Incans built their structures to blend or recapitulate the surrounding environment. The angles of the fortress walls follow the jagged ridges of the Andes behind them.

In the vicinity of the fortress on the mountain known as Pukumuqu. is a large cross overlooking the city, and their own version of Christ the Redeemer, Cristo Blanco. Now, if you read my last post about Portugal, you will know that there are similar statues in Lisbon, Portugal and Eureka Springs, Arkansas. Wonder how many others there are? Do you know of any? Comment below if you do! Cristo Blanco is a miniature version of the one in Rio, standing only 26 feet high.

Verloren

Our wanderings took us to a Peruvian rock concert! We saw a line of young and youngish angsty-looking people wearing black and looking excited, so we stood in it! We saw a sign advertising a band called “Verloren” and listing bands including Metallica and Ozzy Osbourne, so we knew we were in the right place. The doors opened, and the crowd seemed aggressive and “metal” as they moved into the foyer of the building as a unit. I was a tiny bit nervous, being the only blonde white girl in a sea of black-haired people wearing black, but I dealt with it.

Strangely enough, we were escorted to seats on the front row! The auditorium was a rather nice theater, with red carpets, an orchestra, and a mezzanine. The crowd rather quietly filed in and was seated. It was surprisingly, eerily, orderly! A group of young guys (black hair, black clothes) was seated next to us, and I noticed the one closest to me trying repeatedly to get a sneaky selfie with me… he finally asked and, of course, I agreed. I guess tourists don’t usually make their way into these events.

The lights dimmed and the band came on. They ROCKED! There were at least three singers. One, a woman with a great voice, sang Stairway to Heaven. A portly man sang the easier parts of Bohemian Rhapsody. Then a skinny guy with long hair took the stage and sang several rock songs, including songs by AC/DC, Guns N Roses, and Led Zeppelin. He didn’t seem to know or understand all the words, and often made sounds similar to what he thought the words might be. This guy wasn’t a great singer, but he was a great front man. The highlight of the show was a symphonic compendium of Iron Maiden and Metallica songs. This was truly spectacular!

The strangest part of this concert was the vibe. NO ONE got rowdy in this place… The crowd remained seated and respectful, occasionally clapping and singing along. There was no screaming, no fists in the air, no crowdsurfing. The look was “Marilyn Manson,” but the vibe was “Elton John.”

Sacred Valley of the Incas

Through the spectacular Andean scenery, we toured the Sacred Valley of the Incas. We visited an Alpaca farm, where we loved on some alpacas and learned about traditional Peruvian attire and fabric. The fabrics are woven from the fur of llamas, alpacas, and vicunas (in ascending order of softness and expense). The fabrics are dyed with various natural substances which impart the vibrant colors characteristic of the traditional garb. The most interesting was this: The blood of a parasite (Cochineal) which inhabits the prickly pear cactus is used to dye fabric red and has an illustrious past you can read about in this article from Ruidoso, New Mexico: https://www.ruidosonews.com/story/news/local/community/2018/08/07/cochineal-parasite-spread-color-throughout-world/927060002/

We passed by the Instagram-famous SkyLodge. Would you stay here? Follow the link to book… if you dare!

Ollantaytambo

Ollantaytambo is the only Incan city that is still inhabited! It is a small cobblestone town with an important train station, at the base of some of the coolest Incan ruins outside of MP itself. It is about 15 km from the starting point of the Inca Trail. One of the most impressive aspects of these 3500 year old ancient ruins is the system of aqueducts, crafted using subterranean rivers. Another is the fact that it is built on a very steep slope with nearly-perfect rocks. Rocks from another mountain. How in the heck did they get these humongous boulders from one mountain, down into the valley, and up another mountain? Water! They diverted a channel from the Urubumba River to follow the path they needed, and floated the rocks from one mountain to their current home.

Another fun fact is that Ollantaytambo is aligned with other important, even non-Incan sites including the Pyramids of Giza in Egypt, Machu Picchu, and Easter Island. How do you explain this? Obviously, ancient aliens! I’m just sayin. There is some strange stuff going on here…

Pisac

We enjoyed a brief stopover at the village of Pisac and visited its market. Here, we saw Cuy “before” and “after,” as pictured above. We enjoyed a cup of coffee as we watched the guinea pigs play, oblivious to their impending doom. The markets contained the things that markets contain all over the world. Trinkets, t-shirts, baggy patterned pants, etc… with a Peruvian flavor. Of course, I picked up a Christmas ornament (of an alpaca). A word on trinkets- we are not big trinket people or souvenir buyers. I collect Christmas ornaments because they don’t clutter the house and stay in storage most of the year. Decorating the tree is a fun tradition for us- we reminisce about travels and significant life events as we place the commemorative ornaments on the tree. For souvenirs, we send our parents postcards from wherever we are.

Sometimes we will go crazy and buy some local art. Here, we bought three charcoal drawings from a local artist of a llama, an alpaca, and a vicuna. We put all three in a triple-frame and they grace our bathroom to this day.

We did not see the ruins, but they are said to be one of the jewels of the Sacred Valley of the Incas and contain intricate carvings and beautiful temples.

Our travels took us though a village which specializes in cuy, but I did not catch the name and could not find it on google. People lined the streets with cuy on a stick! There were caricatures of guinea pigs, statues of guinea pigs, guinea pigs everywhere! Tourist trap? Perhaps…

Wayra Ranch

The grounds were beautifully manicured and the architectural style very pleasing. But this looked like your typical touristy buffet and we rolled our eyes at each other as we were herded to our long banquet table with 10 other tourists in Hawaiian shirts and tan cargo shorts. But the food was outstanding and interesting! We were actually served course after course of authentic Peruvian food (not actually a buffet). We had empanadas, tamales, anticucho (beef hearts), chicken, pork, and fish. The food was served with many sauces, our favorite of which was served with everything- simple but divine. This sauce was sorta like sambal and consisted of finely chopped red or green peppers in olive oil and salt. Very simple, but it added so much to everything! We had gooseberries, Picarones, and some kind of pudding for dessert.

As we dined, we were entertained by Peruvian Paso horses and their handlers. Women and men danced with each other and the horses. Then, all of a sudden, one of the horses broke free! His saddle came off and was hanging off his side, and he ran into a wall, where his handler was able to get him back under control.

The Inca Trail

The 4-Day Classic Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is a 26 mile hike over undulating trails, over mountain passes, and through lush valleys in the Peruvian Andes. It is difficult, but can be done with training and determination. I wore my Saucony trail running shoes, but many people prefer hiking boots to protect the ankles. Hiking poles are very helpful, particularly since there are so many stairs, ascents, and descents. The destination is Machu Picchu, one of the seven wonders of the world, but It’s all about the journey!

Classic Inca Trail, Day One

The first day of our hike, the 4-Day Classic Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, started early around 5:00 am. Luis collected us at our hotel and drove us back to Ollantaytambo for coffee, empanadas, and supplies. 15 km further to Piscacucho (AKA km 82) brought us to the trailhead of the Inca Trail, just by the Urubumba River. Sometimes I get a little emotional when we start or finish significant events, and I may have had a tear in my eye when I took the first step onto this trail. I am just so thankful and happy that this is the life I get to live… a life populated by trips of a lifetime, shared with my best friend. We worked hard to get here, but we are also blessed and lucky to have had the opportunity to do that work.

Go confidently in the direction of your dreams. Live the life you have imagined… paraphrased from Henry David Thoreau. Begin taking steps today that will get you where you want to be in the future.

The first day was pretty flat and easy. Our guide, Luis, strolled with us through high desert terrain with prickly pears, saguaro cactuses, and innumerable colorful wildflowers. White trumpet creepers hung from trees and birds flittered about, including a few hummingbirds. We passed by houses, many of which were guarded by dogs and several of which offered drinks and snacks for sale. Some even offered coca leaves and chicha.

Chicha comes in two main varieties. Chicha Morada is a non fermented version made with purple corn, and this is the one we tried. It was pretty good. Chicha de Jora is a fermented version made with yellow corn. In some cultures, the maker chews the corn and his saliva begins the fermentation process. Again, to each his own, but no thanks. Chicha de Jora has a huge place in Peruvian history and culture and is partially responsible for the super powers of the porters. There were several restrooms available on this portion of the trail.

A word about the porters- Peruvian sherpas are another breed! These guys are small but mighty. Most are descendants of the Quechua people. The Quechua are the indigenous people of Peru (and some other neighboring countries) and include the Inca and several other ethnic groups. Each day, after we got up and ate breakfast, they would break down camp, pack it up, and run ahead to our lunch spot. They would then set up a lunch tent and multi-course meal and we would eat. Then they would break it down and run ahead to our campsite.

By the time we would arrive, our personal tent, camp toilet, and dining tent were set up and the sherpas were relaxing. They literally RUN up and down mountains in flip flops with 50 pound sacks of our gear on their backs. While we need just the right shoes, clothes, hiking poles, power bars, energy chews, etc, these dudes do it barefoot with only coca leaves and chicha. Tip them well.

We saw a few ruins today, and lots of beautiful scenery. We could see the Andes Mountains in the near distance, and caught a glimpse of the Victoria Glacier. Lunch was at an idyllic spot by a stream, called Tarayoc. Our team had already set up our lunch of trout, little sandwiches, Chicha Morada, and coca tea. I had been chewing on coca leaves to prevent altitude sickness, but I don’t really think I felt much. I did not, however, get altitude sickness. The leaves were bitter and fragmented in the mouth as you chewed, but it gave your mouth something to do while your feet and legs did most of the work…

We did see a few people doing the walk of shame today, and some were being taken out on horseback. I guess they didn’t acclimatize to the altitude.

We watched the scenery change from desert to more lush and hilly terrain, then reached our camp for the night at Huayllabamba/Wayllabamba around 4:30 pm. We had hot tea and snacks, and piddled around the campsite for a while. Our campsite was perched on a hill with sweeping views of misty mountains, and we parked ourselves in chairs where we chatted and read until dinner, accompanied by chickens and dogs milling about.

Dinner was a multi-course feast consisting of pumpkin soup, chicken with mushroom sauce, veggies, potatoes au gratin, and a pear with red wine sauce for dessert. We were in bed by 8:00 for an early start on day two!

Classic Inca Trail, Day Two

So, Day One was the easy day. Day Two was the “challenge day,” and we would ascend from our camp at 10,137 feet to Warmihuañusca, or DEAD WOMAN’S PASS, whose summit is 13,750 feet. It is called this not because many women die there, but because it is shaped like a recumbent woman. I was a little relieved to find this out…We would then drop down into our next camp, at 11,480 feet.

We started about 6 am after breakfast. We climbed up for about five hours, on dirt trails and irregular rock steps, through desert terrain and cloud forest type vegetation. There were moss covered trees, lichen-speckled rocks, and wildflowers in all the colors of the rainbow. Trees hung their branches over the river, and ferny underbrush began to appear. Behind the dense vegetation, endless vistas were visible. The sun shone through the clouds and illuminated the mountains, casting shadows in the valleys. We stopped many times to rest and take in the clean, crisp air.

About an hour into day two, the rain began. What started as a constant Seattle-like drizzle soon became a heavier shower. We wore ponchos and shivered, pushing our exhausted legs up, up, up… We stopped for sandwiches at a bathroom shelter, where we huddled with strangers and met fellow hikers. One was a middle-aged breast cancer survivor who had just finished up her radiation therapy. We met Americans, Scots, and many others.

We pressed on. I used hiking poles, but still thought my legs were going to just give out. I just kept putting one foot in front of the other and somehow made it to the summit. The terrain here was bleak, harsh, and desolate. Most of the vegetation had dwindled away, leaving only low grass and rocks. This was the highest we had ever climbed and we felt such a feeling of accomplishment! What a high! All we had to do now was descend! EASY!!

Yeah… not so much. It just shifted the torment to another set of muscles. And knees. We passed through open grasslands, punctuated by jagged black rocks. The descent became more difficult and the rain continued. The steep, high steps were made slippery by the deluge, so there was an added mental element of fear. Fear of twisting an ankle, skinning a knee, or falling to our death, never to be found. My knees hurt and my calves were shaking. I was still able to appreciate the beauty- even the rocks were beautiful, in muted jewel tones.

My incredibly fit husband said that this hike was the most difficult physical thing he had ever done. And he has done a lot… marathons, triathlons, ruck marches, deployments… yeah, it was rough.

We continued through the Pacaymayu Valley and began to see taller trees and lush greenery, plants with humongous leaves, vines, bromeliads. We finally reached Chaquicocha Camp. This campsite was on a sort of plateau with 360 degree views of the mountains and valleys. There was a layer of mist over the valley, which added a peaceful, mysterious air to the setting. It was cold and rainy, but we enjoyed another incredible dinner in the dining tent with Luis. We were in bed by dark and fell asleep to the sounds of frogs, birds, and rain.

This trip is the perfect blend of physical work and mental stimulation. We learned so much about the Quechua, the Incan civilization, and their descendants. Much of the beliefs of the Quechua centers around Pachamama– Mother Earth, or Earth Goddess. She is a benevolent, ever-present deity who is in nature and helps sustain life. The belief in Pachamama imparts a reverence for nature and respect for the earth. All of the structures and every aspect of their lives relates back to their connection with Pachamama/Mother Earth and other deities. They even toss a bit of whatever they are eating or drinking on the ground before they begin consuming it, “for Pachamama.”

In Incan civilization, there was no money. “Taxes” were pad in labor, and people were given jobs they were suited for. There were no prisons- people who committed crimes were executed or put to labor. There were human sacrifices, but sacrificing oneself (or one’s children) was considered an honor, and the sacrifices were performed humanely. Some nuns would prepare their whole lives to be sacrificed. Often, the sacrifices would receive elevated status and be treated very well before death, then sedated, tied up, and left to die… It was considered an honor for a family to “donate” a child, and if they showed any negative emotion, this was considered shameful.

Classic Inca Trail, Day Three

Day Three has been described as the longest, but most beautiful, day. We set out around 7:00 am and began climbing. For two hours… we climbed through misty mountain trails, along the sides of mountains on slippery rocks as the rain continued. Occasionally, the clouds would part to reveal breathtaking vistas. The clouds would encircle the peaks of the Vilcabamba Range, the highest of which is Salkantay (at 20,574 ft), the summit of the seven-day Inca Trail hike.

Along the way, we visited Incan ruins including Sayacmarca, which was an ancient village built on steep slopes, with remnants of living quarters, a place of worship, and a platform with a stunning view. We stopped by another overlook, a ruin called Runkuraqay. Up and up, we finally reached Phuyapatamarka, the “City Above the Clouds,” at 11,800 feet. Here, we made a Finnish friend and tried some horrible really salty licorice candy. We really could not see much because of the mist, but much of our hike was this way. While the moisture was unpleasant, it did keep the temperatures cool, and gave the whole place a magical feeling.

Then, we descended several steep, slippery, spiral staircases. Many of these scaled the sides of the mountains, with sheer, vertigo-inducing drop-offs on the other side. You could see where landslides had occurred and the trail had been reconstructed.

The cloud forest was lush and shrouded in mist. There were infinite shades of green and brown, with ferns, lichen, and innumerable types of tiny, intricate orchids! So colorful, scattered among the still-beautiful earth tones. Even the moss was beautiful, a million shades of oranges, yellows, reds, and greens, carpeting the rocks and punctuated by bright white shelf fungi.

Day three was hard for me. There was a lot of downhill- the rain sucked and the rocks were slippery. Where the steps were short, I could maneuver pretty easily, but when they were taller, I had to use my hands and almost crawl down. Even the “flat” areas were covered in rocks, which stresses the small muscles of the foot. Hours and hours of descent. Vuong had lots of energy today and even ran with the porters for a bit. One of his buddies wore a cape and was known as “super porter!”

We approached our lunch spot in a deluge. We had to climb up through a rushing stream! Much to Vuong’s delight, I stepped in particularly deep mud and lost my shoe. My socked foot was enveloped in cold, soft, squishy mud! Luckily, I found the shoe. Then, our porters gave me waterproof socks- plastic shopping bags! I put the bags on and put my feet back in the shoes. I am here for your entertainment!

Lunch was a ridiculous feast of potatoes, wontons, rice, loco saltado (basically Peruvian beef stirfry), aji gallino (Peruvian chicken stew), and solterito (lima bean salad). Cake for dessert. It was cold and rainy, and we did not want to leave the comfort of our dining tent. But alas, we had to. So we did.

Overeating at lunch was a bad idea. I was moving so slow, as if in molasses. Steep drop-offs and narrow paths were the theme for the day, and I was kind of thankful for the mist. It hid from sight the plunging valleys and sheer cliffs that were two feet to my right. When the clouds parted, we were rewarded with awe-inspiring panoramas of the Peruvian Andes.

We made our way to the most impressive site yet- Intipata. You MUST take this detour while on your trek of the Inca Trail. It is difficult to reach, and many hikers are too tired and don’t see it. This was one of our favorite places on the trail, and you must go! AKA Terraces of the Sun, Intipata is a series of concave terraces (agricultural platforms) carved into the face of the mountain. It is characterized by sheer drop-offs and steep staircases, both traditional and floating! Just as we arrived, the rain stopped and we were blessed with an otherworldly view of a rainbow spanning the clouds over Victoria Glacier. We sat on one of the terraces and looked out over the Urubumba Valley.

We played around Intipata for a while, taking fun pix on floating staircases and edges of things, making friends and photobombing their group photos. Then we hobbled down to our camp for the last night on the trail at Wiñaywayna.

Wiñaywayna means “Forever Young.” Travel keeps us young- learning new things, having new experiences, and exploring the world keeps our sense of wonder alive and growing. What a fitting last night on the trail. We had “campsite zero,” at the entrance to the camp. Our tent alone was perched on a natural platform surrounded by cloud forest, with a peekaboo view of the glacier and our own camp toilet. We were perfectly positioned to welcome fellow travelers to the site, and were particularly excited when our friend, the breast cancer survivor, made it.

Dinner consisted of leek soup, a stuffed chicken leg, and jello for dessert. Conversation was great, as Luis taught us more about his culture and religion. The Quechua believe that your soul passes through purgatory, guided by your companion dog spirit, and into the reservoir of souls. When a baby is born, a soul is plucked from the reservoir and dropped into the baby. Sometimes, animal sacrifices are performed to lure the condor spirit, so that trapped mummys’ souls can hitch a ride to the reservoir.

We then had an odd, awkward ceremony in which we said nice things and tipped our crew of 8 porters, 1 chef, and 1 guide. Tipping guidelines change, so check with your outfitter before your trek and be sure you have the right amount. We took what our provider recommended, but we were the only ones on our tour, so I think we should have tipped more. There are no ATMs on the Inca Trail, so be prepared…

Classic Inca Trail and Machu Picchu, Day Four

We were up at 4 am and had a light breakfast. Then, we walked along the trail in the dark, our path illuminated only by our headlamps. We waited in line for the park to open, and were admitted at 5:30 am. The goal was to reach the Sun Gate, Inti Punku, for sunrise.

It was mostly a descent at this point, but we still had one last hurdle… The Gringo Killer! This is a short, VERY steep stone staircase that takes you to the sun gate. We did it, and we did not die! Yay us!

We hung out at the Sun Gate, watching the sunrise and waiting for the mist to lift. We saw Wayna Picchu, the large conical mountain that looms over Machu Picchu. And then, for just a few moments, the clouds parted and we saw it! We looked down on Machu Picchu and were renewed for the last toe of our journey (not a leg, not a foot, just a tiny toe remained!).

We began the final descent… more steep drops and slippery rocks. My legs were jello and I felt like a baby llama walking on my wobbly legs. We began to encounter well-dressed, fresh tourists heading for the Sun Gate from Machu Picchu. These folks had taken a shortcut to the site, bussing or being driven, and were taking a 1-2 hour hike to see the views from the Sun Gate. I doubt some of them made it though…

We had not showered in days, I wore no makeup, and I felt dirty and smelly, particularly when passing fragrant tourists. After a couple of close encounters with curious llamas, we made an offering of our residual coca leaves to Pachamama, and proceeded down to the city.

I teared up when I saw it for the first time. Sprawled out before us was the Lost City of the Incas, Machu Picchu. Our four-day pilgrimage was at an end. What a feeling of accomplishment! We stood at a vantage point slightly above the city, and took it in. At 7972 feet, it is much lower than Cusco or the mountain passes we had traversed. But, if you want to walk there, you have to cross these passes. Therefore, you have to acclimatize. Otherwise, you can ride a train and car or bus, or do the 2-day trek. We were glad we had done the full 4-day Classic Inca Trail trek to Machu Picchu! But we were also glad it was over!

We checked into our room at the Belmond Sanctuary Lodge. Our room was not ready, but the Lodge had showers for its guests who were arriving from the trail. This shower was AH-MAZING!

We left our bags and headed back to Machu Picchu for our tour of the site with Luis. An aside here- You can opt to hike that conical mountain that looms over the site, Wayna Picchu. Just do it. As I have mentioned, we try not to fall victim to FOMO, but we do have travel regrets. This is my biggest one! While doing everything can exhaust you and take away the richness of the experiences you are having, choose a few experiences/sites/etc, and really dig into them.

I wish we had chosen to do this one. I was so tired, my legs were done, and I had been told a cautionary take by a fellow pathologist who found herself crying on the slopes of Wayna Picchu. So I bowed out, depriving Vuong and myself of this experience. Now, we have to go back to MP... we are taking the bus next time LOL.

Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu, The Lost City of the Incas was built around 1400 CE and was the center of the Incan Civilization. The city was never actually lost, but Hiram Bingham is often credited with “discovering” it in 1911. There are no written records of what the different structures were used for. Instead, all of the information we have comes from what modern archaeologists have discovered. The main structures are The Temple of the Sun, the Sundial, or Intihuatana, and the Room of Three Windows.

There were three types of construction, and you can see examples of each in the photo. The rough stones in the front are the first and used for common folk. On your left is the mid-grade type, used for priest quarters and that of other semi-important people. The right side shows the highest grade, reserved for the Inca himself and holy places. All are very solid means of construction, but the artistry and care improves with each level, as you can see.

One of the reasons MP is one of the seven wonders of the world is its foundation. The foundation is made of gravel and sand, so provide increased stability during earthquakes and to help with drainage.

The Temple of the Condor was amazing- its elements carved in the shape of a condor. Alpaca and Llama bones were found here, so it is thought this may have been used for sacrifice. There were granaries for food storage, with reconstructed thatch roofs. There were terraces for agriculture, housing for commoners and nobility, and an innovative drainage system.

Belmond Sanctuary Lodge

We opted for a small splurge at the end of our trek. Belmond Sanctuary Lodge is the only hotel at Machu Picchu, and it is luxurious. After a leisurely lunch, we explored the grounds and wandered through the orchid garden, where we encountered numerous hummingbirds. We enjoyed much-needed massages in their individual spa rooms in the garden.

Dinner was an experience! Gourmet cuisine accompanied an Andean band with pipes and a mandolin. Those cute little alpacas are delicious!

After the Inca Trail

After a terrifying bus ride down winding, narrow roads to Aguas Calientes, we spent a little time exploring the town. Named for its hot springs, the water of which is used to fill several hot baths, this is a very cute town. The baths, however, were disgusting and I recommend skipping them. At the far end of town, there is a complex of several pools, and you pay admission to enter. We changed into our suits and found a less crowded pool to try. We were disgusted by the tepid, cloudy yellow water and swarms of flies.

After a nice lunch in a Chifa Restaurant, we found the train station. Chifa is a culinary style based on Chinese Cantonese elements fused with traditional Peruvian ingredients and traditions. We had bought tickets for the Vista Dome train, and this is a great way to get back down to Ollantaytambo. Don’t count on their snacks for significant caloric intake- all we were offered were brownies and coffee. We met a group of fellow travelers from Canada and had great conversation for the nearly two-hour train ride, as we watched the scenery speed by. There was entertainment in the form of a strange devil jester guy who chose lucky me as his dance partner, and a fashion show by two of the cabin stewards.

After a two hour train ride, our guide picked us up in Ollantaytambo for a two hour drive back to Cusco. We ran into our friends-Alex, Harriett, Jeff, and Cathy- from the train and decided to have dinner with them at Moreno’s, which I described earlier. Alex is a travel photographer and has amazing work which you can purchase. Check out his gallery: https://alexzimmer.zenfolio.com/ What a great way to end our trip, swapping travel stories with likeminded people!

Summary

This trip piqued our interest in the Incan Civilization and we learned so much about it, ourselves, and each other. This was an incredibly challenging undertaking, both physically and mentally. We wanted to give up many times, but we kept smiling and pushed each other when we needed it, providing encouragement when the other wanted to sit down and quit. We never fought, and kept positive attitudes for the most part. Microbreaks, snacks, and coca leaves sparked jolts of energy when needed. When our legs or lungs wanted to quit, our minds took over. We took comfort in our warm sleeping bags and pails of hot water, and enjoyed great conversation with each other and our guide, Luis.

We had hoped for a fun group, but enjoyed experiencing the journey together. This trip was significant for me because I received a definitive diagnosis of Crohn’s disease just prior to it, and that was messing with my head. I was worried that it would ruin our plans for world travel and a life of adventure. This trip proved to me that I could do anything I put my mind to and that this bodily issue would not limit me!

This trip also taught us that we don’t need handholding and can plan our trips without complete guidance from an expensive, all-inclusive travel agent. While it was great not to have to worry about anything and that remains a wonderful option if you have the money, we realized that part of the fun of travel is figuring it out for yourself. Travel is not always fun and comfortable, but sometimes it is unpleasant and difficult. This is still important. Growth occurs in times of adversity and struggle, and you learn about yourself and your fellow humans in times like these.

Check out my travel resources here: https://jenniferspath.org/resources-and-reviews/. I also read the following in preparation for the trip: Turn Right at Machu Picchu: Rediscovering the Lost City One Step at a Time by Mark Adams.

What did you think about our trip to Peru? Have you been or are you going? I would love to hear about your trip! If you have questions, comment below!