Part One – The basics

Everything you ever wanted to know about Buenos Aires! In this article, I’ll tell you what we learned about:

• Barrios of Buenos Aires- Palermo is our favorite for accommodations!
• The cuisine of Buenos Aires- Provoleto is mouthwatering and oh, the meat!
• Things to do in Buenos Aires- Gauchos, Tango Shows, and Bike Rides!

Buenos Aires, Argentina is known as the “Paris of South America” for good reason! This vibrant, cosmopolitan city thrums with heat and passion, unveiling a new mystery around every corner! We knew steak, wine, and tango were iconic symbols of this city; but a week gave us time to dig deeper and taste the real local flavor.

We recently ended up in this sprawling port city at the end of a South American cruise, which left from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil and visited several ports in Brazil and Uruguay. Read about our time in Rio here and the cruise itself here. Check out photos from our trip below.

The cruise port itself was a madhouse, and we heard several horror stories about people having trouble getting Ubers, getting fleeced by cabbies, and, in one case, having to walk a mile through sometimes seedy areas with large roller bags. I strongly suggest booking a transfer ahead of time. We booked one through Viator here- it was not too expensive, and Rakuten had 12X points on Viator.

Fun Fact- You can set up your Rakuten account so that you get American Express Rewards points instead of cash back! You can potentially get way more out of your Amex points than a $10 check.

Overview of Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires is a massive, cosmopolitan city with endless options for where to stay, what to do, and what to eat. Whatever you choose, it can be wonderful, and the neighborhood will influence the experience you have. All potentially amazing, but all different.

European Influence in Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires is unique among South American cities. It has that hot, passionate vibe that comes with Latin culture. But because of the influx of European settlers (and invaders), there is a chic, elegant, upscale flavor that permeates the area. The French landscape architect, Charles Thays, designed innumerable parks and green spaces around the city. Not only do these areas add to the overall charm of the city, but they provide a rapid respite for locals from city life, and help cool the atmosphere in the sweltering summers!

The influence of Spain and Italy is evident in the cuisine of Argentina, BA in particular. Pizza is extremely popular here, and is VERY good! Argentinian pizza is heavy on cheese and bread, and light on sauce and other toppings. I have to say, a nice slice of Fugazzetta and a glass of Malbec is heavenly! More on the cuisine later…

The Language of Buenos Aires

The official language is Spanish, but here it is spoken with an Italian flare! The Spanish spoken in Argentina (and Uruguay) is a dialect known as “Rioplatense Spanish.” I’m no linguist but, if you are, Wikipedia has an extensive analysis of this dialect.

The Politics and Currency of Buenos Aires

This was a hot-button issue at the time of our travel, in January of 2024. Since the new president took office in December, the Argentinian Peso rapidly lost value, and inflation soared. It was so bad that residents had no idea what anything would cost day to day- life’s necessities. We were worried that this might translate into increased street crime, but we did not find that to be true at all. We always felt safe, and our guides and people we met said it was no worse than it had been…Either way, be aware of your surroundings and use common sense. Be careful where you wander, particularly after dark. Keep your head on a swivel and your hand on your small crossbody purse or fanny pack. This goes for ANY city in ANY country, including the good ole USA.

Neighborhoods, or Barrios, of Buenos Aires, Argentina

An in-depth analysis of BA’s neighborhoods is beyond the scope of this post, but I can make recommendations for your trip based on my research and our visit. Really, you can’t go wrong. BA has excellent public transportation, and Uber and taxis were easy to come by. Getting places in cars takes a while, as traffic can be pretty bad. I recommend taking the time to figure out the trains and busses and taking those. With that said, we mostly used Uber from our apartment in Palermo. Up and down the Avenida de Libertador at least once every day!

Palermo, Buenos Aires- Live Like a Local

Palermo is the largest and greenest barrio in BA. It is divided into several neighborhoods, including Palermo Soho, Palermo Viejo, Palermo Chico, and Palermo Hollywood. We stayed in Palermo Hollywood, in an apartment we found on Airbnb. It was almost perfect for us- One bedroom, 1.5 baths, a terrace with a nice view of the city, a full kitchen, and a rooftop pool.

Mr. Garage Gym

The building has a gym, but it was awful. It was hot and the limited equipment seemed like it was going to fall apart at any moment. So, we ended up getting a temporary membership at a gym a few blocks away, which worked out perfectly. If you are in the area, check out Mr. Garage Gym. We paid $20 per person for a 4-day membership, and it had everything we needed.

Laundry

One confusing thing about this property was laundry… so, yes English is technically spoken in much of the world, including Argentina. BUT, we were definitely in a “locals” area, and we found that English was not so widely spoken or understood here. First, the security guard didn’t speak a word of English. Second, the laundry instructions were in Spanish without English translations.

We quickly learned how to use Google Translate to speak with the guard and to translate the sign in the laundry room. It was still confusing but here is what we figured out. To use the machines, you needed a special token. To get this token, you had to go to a convenience store that had a little “L” symbol hidden in a sea of stickers on its window. Once we found the store with the tokens, we had to find a grocery store with detergent, and then figure out which thing was detergent and how to make the solution… It felt like we were on a scavenger hunt.

It is the little things. Once we figured out the gym and how to do laundry, we felt so accomplished and worldly. So much more rewarding than putting it in a bag in a hotel and calling the concierge 😀

My point is- learn a few phrases in the local language wherever you go, learn to use Google Translate, and pack some patience. Think. One of the best parts of traveling is that it gets you out of your routine. You cannot continue on autopilot when you are in a new place, particularly one where you don’t speak the language. You must keep your brain turned on and remain aware of your surroundings. And even the most mundane tasks (like doing laundry) can be an adventure!

Recoleta, Buenos Aires- You So Fancy!

The Recoleta barrio is an excellent choice for your first-time visit as well. The iconic Eva Peron is buried here, at the Cementerio de la Recoleta. This cemetery is a must-visit! It is a lot like the cemeteries you’ll see in New Orleans, with innumerable above-ground mausoleums and cobblestone walkways. Recoleta is a chic, upscale neighborhood with a European vibe and cafes on every corner. Great shopping abounds if you are into that sort of thing.

With that said, nightlife is more laid back here than in Palermo. It is more of a chill wine bar type of scene than an EDM club. Boutique hotels abound, and AirBnB and VRBO have great options as well.

San Telmo, Buenos Aires- Tourist Central!

San Telmo is a bustling, crowded, touristy area of the city that bursts with charm and electricity! If you hate crowds, give this hood a pass. But, if you draw energy from being surrounded by a million tourists, put your hand on your fanny pack, stay aware of your surroundings, and embrace the chaos!

Young and vibrant, this neighborhood is walkable and you are likely to see people doing the tango in the streets. On Sundays, Defensa Street is the place to be, for the Sunday Fair.

Every day, you can visit the vast, sprawling San Telmo Market for food, drink, souvenirs, dulce de leche, antiques… they have it all! This historic landmark was built in 1897 and declared a historic monument in 2000. After running the gauntlet of stalls in the main hallway, make your way to the food court to sample every dish Argentina is famous for. We had a variety of empanadas from El Hornero, and they were delicious!

Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires- A Class Act!

More of a bougie diva? Prefer to stay somewhere polished clean and sparkly? Budget not so important? Go for Puerto Madero and Uber to the sites. If I were going back and didn’t mind shelling out a buck or two, I’d stay at the Faena Hotel. The Rosa Tango Show is held here and is phenomenal! The hotel is quirky and gaudy, yet sophisticated and hip. One of the restaurants had Unicorn heads mounted on the wall, and the overall vibe is very… red. Kinda reminded me of what an upscale brothel might have been like back in the day but in a good way.

With that said, Puerto Madero loses a lot of the flavor that is Buenos Aires, and it probably is not the best choice for your first time in the city. There are lots of chain restaurants and high rises… but between the high rises and the river is a very nice ecological reserve that is great for bird watching and walking around.

We dined at a parilla in Puerto Madero that was recommended by one of our guides- Estilo Campo. We were very pleased, although it was not our best meal in BA.

Microcentro Porteno- Downtown Buenos Aires

Microcentro, or the Central Business District, is the heart of Buenos Aires and is home to many important buildings, sites, and monuments. Here, you will find the Presidential Palace, AKA the Casa Rosada or The Pink House, Plaza de Mayo, The Cathedral (Papa Francesco’s home church), the Obelisk, and Teatro Colon.

The area is peppered with parks, and you can find fancy high-end hotels here. If you only have one or two nights and want to do your touristy duty and see the major sites, staying here would be an efficient use of your time.

La Boca- Tourist Central Near the Mouth of the River

I would not recommend staying here, but I do recommend a brief daytime visit. It is a very touristy, kitschy area, but it is cute and funky. Hand on your crossbody bag or fanny pack and head on a swivel, look out for pickpockets and shady characters and give it a pass at night. The houses are painted in bright colors, which makes for really cool photos. This neighborhood right by the port was settled by an Italian fisherman who used paint leftover from their boats to paint their houses.

If you are into football (of the soccer variety), La Bombonera is here. This stadium is home to the Boca Juniors, one of BA’s most popular football clubs. It is known as “The Chocolate Box” because someone thought it looked like one.

Accommodations

I’m including this section for completeness’ sake, but I can’t even begin to tackle this one. Also, I want to spend more time on the food!

Pick your neighborhood first, then choose a hotel, hostel, or Airbnb. We went with an AirBnB in Palermo Hollywood and were well pleased. We would stay in the same neighborhood again and are even thinking of spending an extended period of time there when we retire.

Condé Nast has a list of the top 10 upscale accommodations here. AirBnB or VRBO offers mid-range options. If you are on a tight budget and/or young and single, check out Hostelworld for budget-friendly accommodations where you can meet like-minded travelers.

Cuisine

We came in with a to-do list of food for Buenos Aires! We tried everything on it except for one dish, the Locro, which is a hominy stew. It just didn’t inspire us to seek it out. Did we miss out? The food in Buenos Aires was so good, but not at all healthy and, if I lived here, I’d probably be obese because it includes so many things I love…The average Argentinian consumes 120 pounds of beef a year. Wonder how much cheese.

So here is the list and where we ate the items on the list:

Asado

This is the term used for the meat, the method of cooking the meat, and the social activity of eating the meat. It comes from the Spanish word “asar,” meaning “to grill.” The meat is usually beef, but lamb, pork, and mutton are often served as well. It is served with chimichurri and salsa criolla. I LOVE CHIMICHURRI!

Chimichurri is a staple of Argentinian cuisine and typically consists of finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, red pepper flakes, minced garlic, olive oil, oregano, and vinegar or lemon juice. Salsa Criolla is a lot like Pico de Gallo, with chopped tomato and onion, but it also has olive oil.

Provoleto

We had Asado several times. The best was at Hierro in Palermo and IT. WAS. FANTASTIC! Eat here. Seriously. We started off with Provoleto. Theirs was called the “Provoleto Hierro” and it was one of the best foods I have ever put in my mouth. Provoleto is grilled provolone cheese that is slightly warm and melty, but grilled and a little tiny bit crunchy on the outside. The Provoleto Hierro was served with spiced honey, caramelized red onions, and baked pear. For our entree, we had a T-bone steak (beef) and pork ribs, with a side of sweet potatoes. The sweet potatoes were cut into wedges and served with lemony cottage cheese, pear reduction, toasted almonds, and sage. I don’t know how we did it, but we also had dessert- the pear crumble. This meal was probably the best we had while in BA.

We had asado again at Estilo Campo. This restaurant was located in the Puerto Madero neighborhood and was a little touristy, but still fantastic. The waiters were dressed in traditional costumes, which was cute but a bit cheesy. Our waiter really made our evening special- Gustavo. We had a wagyu sirloin with a side of mashed boniato, which is a squash similar to pumpkin.

Fugazzeta

OK, so I love cheese. I love pizza. Fuggazeta is an impossibly thick, sauceless, cheese-stuffed pizza topped with grilled onions. There are variations on the theme, but that is the original. The classic. And that is what we had first, at a little corner restaurant in San Telmo called Mi Tio Pizzeria. That means “My Uncle” and this establishment has been here for about 40 years. We chose well- it was fast and delicious. We had another variation of Argentinian pizza with our food tour guide at Pizzeria Guerrin. This institution has been around forever and is close to the Obelisk on Avenida Corrientes. It is very popular and receives rave reviews from YouTubers the world over. We had a slice of pizza with Faina on TOP of it… a bit odd for me, this is a flatbread made with chickpea flour that you eat with your pizza.

Milanesa

Milanesa is a flat piece of meat dipped in egg and breadcrumbs and fried, much like Weiner schnitzel. It is usually beef, but can be pork, chicken, veal, or fish. We had Milanesa Sandwiches at Cafe Paulin. This lunch spot is popular among workers on their lunch break. It is fun because they dramatically slide the plates down the counter really fast to you…The sandwich was yummy.

Choripan

Choripan is a chorizo sandwich made with grilled or toasted bread stuffed with chorizo sausage, then topped with chimichurri and/or salsa criolla. We tried choripan at a cute little cafe called Los Platitos that reminded me of a 1950s diner. LOVED IT. This little cafe was located in an entertainment complex called Paseo la Plaza in the theatre district, close to Pizzeria Geurrin. This was a cool place that was perfect for date night or a family night out. It seemed more to me like a local “take the fam out for dinner and a show” kinda place. It was very clean, safe, and quiet, with numerous food stalls and entertainment venues.

Empanadas

Empanadas are baked or fried turnovers, pastry dough with a plethora of delicious fillings. I was not super excited about empanadas- I’d had them many times and they were yummy, but nothing new. But the empanadas in Argentina are something special. The ones we had were baked instead of fried, so not greasy at all. The best ones we had were on our city tour in San Telmo Market. The food stall was called El Hornero. It is extremely popular, for good reason! We tried the tomato mozzarella and the other carne asada. There were at least 12 types to choose from, and the shape indicated what was inside.

Dulce de Leche

Dulce de leche is essentially a spread made from condensed milk and sugar that ends up tasting like super sweet, caramelly butterscotchy deliciousness. It fills alfajores, and medialunas, and can be spread on anything your little heart desires.

Notable Cafes

Known as “Bares Notables,” these cafes are known for their historic significance and their ambiance has been preserved to maintain their original vibe. These are some of the best places to experience the “cafe culture” so prevalent in BA.

We visited a couple of these on our food tour with Ines. The first was “London City,” which was located very close to Plaza de Mayo. This notable cafe pays homage to novelist Julio Cortezar. Here we sampled several popular snacks, alongside our coffee. Sandwiches de Miga are multi-layered sandwiches with thin, crustless bread. They can have cheese, cold cuts, lettuce, and tomato. They are basically just sandwiches, like you might have with traditional English tea.

Medialunas are basically Argentinian croissants, but they are slightly different. I’ve heard them described as a cross between a croissant and brioche, and they do have a hint of sweetness. One we had was filled with dulce de leche and had a drizzle of syrup over the top.

We had alfajores here, and several other places. The best one we had was at a little cafe called Mooi near the rose garden where we stopped on our bike tour. These kinda look like giant macarons, but the taste and texture is completely different. They are kinda poofy sandwich cookies, often filled with dulce de leche. They can be plain or coated in any type of chocolate, then coated with desiccated coconut. So good with a cup of strong coffee.

Gelato

Gelato is huge here because of the Italian influence. The last stop on our food tour was Cadore, supposedly the best gelato in town. I had toasted coconut and Vuong had Mascarpone and cherry. Both were exquisite.

Matambre

Matambre is a very thin cut of meat- usually beef, but sometimes pork. The meat is typically rolled and stuffed with peppers, ham, and a boiled egg. We tried a variation of this dish at La Dorita in Palermo. This is a charming, popular restaurant that bursts with color. Our waitress spoke no English at all, so we couldn’t really get details about the menu items. So we ordered the Matambre de Certo which, it turns out, is a bit different. It is just a thin slice of salted pork without stuffing. It wasn’t bad, it just wasn’t anything special. Adding a little chimichurri helped. Meh.

Activities

City Tour

Our cruise arrived in Buenos Aires in the morning. We had booked our Airbnb for the previous night so we could check in immediately, so we did that. I usually schedule an orientation tour at the very beginning of our stay in a new city, so we can get our bearings, ask questions, and get restaurant recommendations.

Rakuten was offering 12X cash back for tours booked on Viator, so I went nuts a booked lots of tours on that site. Our walking tour with Chan was a blast, although we had to eliminate a few of the stops since it was pouring down rain! Check out his Instagram.

Our tour started off in San Telmo and ended at Cementeria de la Recoleta. We wandered the cemetery in a deluge! It added to the mystique of the place, but quickly became miserable, so we said our goodbyes.

Tango Show

It is your touristy duty to see a tango show while in Buenos Aires. You can choose to combine your show with a lesson and/or dinner. You can also choose to be picked up. Things start late in BA, so just be aware of that. We only went to one tango show, so I can’t do a comparison of all of them. BUT, I can strongly recommend the one we attended. We opted out of the lesson and dinner. Viator offers a variety of options, and most of them review well. Check out the list here.

The Rojo Tango Show is held at the funky, hip Hotel Faena in Puerto Madero. As I said, we didn’t opt for dinner but I bet the food there is excellent. The theatre was intimate and small, with probably 15 tables seating 2 people each. We had a front-row table at the far left of the stage, which was perfect. Wine and champagne were free-flowing, and the show was quite steamy. It was a beautiful experience!

Bicycle Tour

Our bicycle tour was definitely a highlight of our time in BA. All week long, we had been driving up and down Avenida de Libertadores, admiring the parks and green spaces. There were bike trails and bike lanes everywhere, and we were anxious to get out and explore. Again, I booked this tour on Viator.

Our tour started in the Plaza General Saint Martin and took us through Microcentro into the parks. We saw the giant blooming metal flower, Floralis Generica, and a beautifully painted bridge, Puente Facultad de Derecho. We rode through some exclusive, expensive neighborhoods near Palermo and Recoleta. Then, we stopped for snacks at Mooi Market by the Rose Garden and took a stroll around the peaceful garden. We saw the monument to Evita and learned about the history and culture of BA and Argentina as a whole, as well as the popular reaction to Madonna’s portrayal of this polarizing figure.

I am a bit of a nervous rider, but felt completely at ease on this tour. The bikes were comfortable and we only had to drive in traffic very briefly. Drivers here seemed very aware of bikers, and our guide German with Bike Tours was great. Here is where you can book this tour. Request him! He is honestly one of the best guides we have had. He is funny, engaging, and passionate about his city and country.

Gaucho Tour

This is another one of those “must-do” things in Buenos Aires. Yes, it was touristy. It was a little cheesy and put-on, but we still enjoyed ourselves and learned a lot about the culture and history of Argentina, and the traditions of the Gaucho. Again, I booked this tour through Viator, but you can book directly through the provider and get a better deal. You could even choose to stay at the Estancia, which would have been idyllic. Check out this website for Areco Tradicion.

San Antonio de Areco

Our driver picked us up on time and we set out for about a two-hour drive through the pampas, the fertile, flat grasslands to the town of San Antonio de Areco. This is a cute little town famous for its association with gaucho culture. We visited the Museo y Taller de Plateria Draghi, which is a lovely little gaucho museum with a working silversmith’s studio attached to it. There, we learned all about the gaucho and their accoutrement and saw the silversmith in action. We visited the Parish of Saint Anthony of Padua, a coffee shop where we had coffee and alfajores, and a leather workers shop.

Estancia el Ombu

Our guide took us to Estancia el Ombu de Areco for our lunch, horseback ride, and gaucho show. The ranch was located on a sprawling, flat pampas and we were greeted with tea and empanadas prior to our horseback ride. If you don’t enjoy riding horses, you can opt for the carriage. The ride was easy, slow, and short, but it was nice to get some fresh air. It was followed by an asada lunch which was OK… we were already spoiled with all the amazing food in BA. The service was excellent, though!

Folklorico

After lunch, there was a nice folklorico show. It was a very slow, romantic, teasing dance with live guitar accompaniment. After a while, they invited the guests to join, but we snuck off… I hate doing things like this. I mean, I love joining in, having new experiences, and trying new things, but this felt cheesy and touristy. I’d rather watch people who know what they are doing!

Gaucho Horse Training

The last part of the show was quite interesting. The gaucho and his horse apparently have a very intimate relationship. I must say, their style of training is much nicer than what I’ve heard horse training was like. This is not my area of interest or expertise, but from what I understand there is a good deal of sternness involved in training horses. Not with the gaucho’s style! It is much more gentle and sweet.

Food Tour

I’ve already told you what we ate and where we went on our food tour. I booked through Withlocals and chose Ines as our guide. She was perfect! I highly recommend this tour. We had 10 stops and more food than we could handle. We tried sandwiches de miga, alfajores, medialunas, empanadas, pizza, milanesa, choripan, and gelato!

Graffiti Tour

I hate being critical, but this was my least favorite tour of our trip. It was a walking tour with 8 million other tourists, it was hot, and I couldn’t hear our guide. We started in a busy square in Palermo Soho, which is a popular, happening place. Then, we followed our guide, watching his bright orange umbrella, like little duckies. We crowded the sidewalks and got in people’s way as we tried to hear what he was saying. There is some amazing street art in this neighborhood but take a private tour.

That’s All Folks!

Well, that was a novel, wasn’t it? Have you been to BA or are you going? You might find us there. This was honestly one of our favorite cities and we will be back!